Do-it-yourself water heater installation: a step-by-step guide + technical standards
For owners of suburban real estate, the organization of an autonomous water heating system is practically a necessity. You see, what comfort can we talk about if there is no hot water in the house? Electric appliances for heating water are extremely popular in organizing autonomous water supply for a private house.
Such devices can also be used in apartments so that there are no problems with hot water. They cost a lot, so installing a storage water heater with your own hands will significantly reduce costs.
This article will discuss the rules for installing these devices. We will tell you how they work and what you need to know before starting installation. Also in the article you will find schemes that allow you to correctly install the storage water heater. For clarity, the article contains videos with tips on installing heaters.
The content of the article:
How it works?
Electric storage water heaters are simple enough. Typically, such a device is a container, inside which a heating element is installed - a powerful heater. Since the device is designed to store hot water, it must be insulated.
Two pipes are built inside: on one of them, cold water is drawn from the water supply system, on the second, a stream heated up to a certain temperature is supplied to the DHW circuit. An automatic control unit is used to regulate the operation of the device.
This set of devices controls the water intake, the temperature of its water heating, turns on and off the heater as necessary. The control unit is also equipped with an automatic power-off module in case there is no water inside the tank.
It is unacceptable to turn on the heater if the heater is not covered with water, this situation will lead to an early breakdown of the device.
And on how to choose a storage water heater and not miscalculate with a choice, you can read in this article.
The order of installation of such heaters
A simple design provides exceptional reliability of storage water heaters. Installing such a device is not too difficult, but it is necessary to take into account a number of important nuances.
First you need to choose the place where the heater will be installed. After that, it is installed and connected to the water supply system and to the power supply.
For domestic use, relatively small wall models are most often used. They are hung on special brackets. For a vertical type model, two brackets are used, and for a horizontal device, four such elements are needed.
The procedure for fixing the brackets to the wall is simple; for this, suitable self-tapping screws and a screwdriver are usually used.
Between the brackets on which vertical models of water heaters are installed, there must be a distance of 180 mm. For mounting horizontal models use brackets with hinges.
In this case, it is necessary to maintain a distance between the protective cover and the surfaces of other objects of at least 300 mm for devices up to 80 l and at least 500 mm for heaters with a capacity of 100-200 l.
Do not install the vertical model in a horizontal position or vice versa, place a vertical heater on its side. This is a gross violation of the operating conditions and safety of the device, which can lead not only to equipment breakdown, but also to a dangerous accident.
Use the level to check the correct position of the individual brackets relative to each other. As for the installation location of the water heater, it is recommended to choose it as close as possible to the points of analysis of hot water.
This will allow faster delivery of hot water to the consumer, i.e. reduce heat loss during transportation.
Inexperienced craftsmen sometimes make a mistake - they attach the brackets to the drywall partitions. The bearing capacity of such structures is too small to support the weight of the device.
Even if a water heater installed in this way does not collapse immediately, this can happen after it is filled with water.
A separate case is the installation of a storage water heater on a gypsum wall, behind which there is a load-bearing wall. In this case, special fasteners of sufficient length should be used so that they pass through the false wall and sink into the thickness of the supporting structure, which will bear the main load.
Of course, the place where the storage heater is installed should be accessible for maintenance, adjustment, repair, etc. The design of such devices is usually quite attractive, therefore, in the field of combination with other interior items, problems should not arise.
Of course, before starting installation work, you should study the manufacturer's instructions to take into account the recommendations in this document.
If a storage water heater is installed in an apartment of a multi-storey building, when it breaks down, there is a danger of flooding of the premises, which are located a floor below. Therefore, it is recommended to take care of the waterproofing of the room intended for it before installing the device.
An alternative protection against such troubles can be a special pan equipped with a drain hole and connected to the sewer system.
If the house has an automated leakage protection system, it makes sense to install one of the sensors directly under the water heater. This measure will not save completely from flooding, but will help minimize damage.
Since it is recommended to place the storage water heater as close as possible to the hot water intake points, make sure that the device is adequately protected from moisture.
If the heater is located next to a sink, washbasin or bathtub, splashing on the surface of the cabinet is almost inevitable. More serious contact with water is possible, which is dangerous for any electrical appliance.
Before you install a storage water heater in the apartment, you should pay attention to the labeling of the device. The ability of the device to tolerate external influences is reflected in the special IPXX index, where XX are numbers.
Values of the first IP Protection Index score:
- 0 - no protection;
- 1 - protection against large objects (sizes over 50 mm);
- 2 - protection against objects of medium size (sizes over 12.5 mm);
- 3 - protection against small objects (sizes over 2.5 mm);
- 4 - protection against small objects (sizes over 1 mm);
- 5 - protection against dust;
- 6 - absolute tightness.
The first digit of the index reflects the resistance of the appliance to contact with foreign objects. The second of them indicates the degree of protection of the device from moisture.
Values of the first IP Protection Index score:
- 0 - no protection;
- 1 - there is protection against vertically directed drops;
- 2 - protection against drops falling at an angle of not more than 15 degrees from the vertical;
- 3 - protection against raindrops and splashes at an angle of not more than 60 degrees from the vertical;
- 4 - protection against splashes in any direction;
- 5 - protection against water jets;
- 6 - protection against strong jets and sea waves;
- 7 - short-term immersion of the device to a depth of not more than one meter is allowed;
- 8 - the device can be immersed to a meter depth for up to half an hour.
This information will allow you to assess the operating conditions of the water heater from a safety point of view. This information will also be useful for installing other electrical appliances.
Most storage water heaters do not need an excessively high degree of protection, for example, for working under water. Most often, such devices are labeled as IP25. This level can be provided at home.
Connection to the plumbing system
The drain hole of this type of heater, regardless of model, is usually located below. First you need to assemble and install the so-called security group. This is a set of valves and fittings designed to prevent various emergency situations that may occur during operation of the device.
An adapter is installed at the top, which is often called an “American”. Then a bronze tee is screwed on. A check valve is attached to its lower part, which prevents water from pouring back into the water supply system. Another tee is attached to the side branch of the tee.
A safety valve of 6 bar is mounted on it to provide the ability to automatically reduce the pressure inside the tank if it reaches a critical level.
A special compression fitting for the water pipe is connected to the same tee. According to it, with excess pressure, part of the water will be discharged from the drive into the sewer.
After installing the device, be sure to ensure that the pressure valve opening remains open, otherwise the device simply will not work.
All threaded connections should be sealed and sealed. Experts recommend taking at least four hours to dry the sealant.
Steel, copper, plastic or metal-plastic pipes can be used to connect the device to a cold water riser. When doing the installation yourself, they are most often used plastic pipessince soldering them is relatively easy.
Some use flexible hoses for these purposes, but this solution does not justify itself. As practice has shown, such items wear out quickly.
It is clear that before inserting pipes, hot and cold water entering the apartment should be closed.A shut-off valve should be installed between the cold water riser and the heater so that, if necessary, the water entering the device can be turned off. All connections are carefully sealed.
Now you need to bring another pipe that will connect the heater to the hot water system in the apartment. On this site, you will need another shut-off valve: between the hot water riser and the heater.
This faucet must always be shut off so that the heated water from the boiler does not fall into the common hot riser of the house. Again, the sealing and sealing of all joints must be monitored.
The stopcock for cold water between the heater and risers must be installed so that when closed it does not interfere with the flow of water to other consumers, cutting off only the heater.
And the connection to the hot water supply system needs to be done so that, if necessary, it is possible to restore the flow of hot water from the common riser to the system in the apartment.
On this, the connection to the water supply system can be considered completed. Some experts at this stage recommend a preliminary check: fill the container with water, and then drain it and see if a leak appears. Such a check can only be done after the sealant has completely dried on all joints.
Water heater and autonomous water supply
In private households, it is usually not centralized, but autonomous water supply. In such a situation, the use of a storage water heater is quite justified and possible. But the connection diagram should be slightly modified. The source of water in this case is usually a tank installed in the attic or upper floor.
It is necessary to measure the vertical distance between this tank and the water heater. If it is less than two meters, then a tee is installed at the outlet of the tank in order to divert part of the cold water to the heating device so that the pipe is above the level at which the heater is installed. A tee with a non-return valve and a drain outlet is installed at the inlet of the cold water pipeline to the device.
If the distance from the water tank to the heater vertically exceeds two meters, then the discharge is performed lower than the level of installation of the heater. At the same time, a tee is installed at the inlet of cold water into the device with the removal of excess water into the sewer, and a check valve is connected a little lower.
Before installing the water heater, measure water pressure in an autonomous system at home. If it exceeds a level of six bar, it is necessary to supplement the installation scheme with a special reduction gear. Excessively high pressure of water entering the heater can cause equipment damage.
Electrical installation
Connecting the storage water heater to power supply seems to be a very simple task, because for this you just need to plug the device into a power outlet. Household heaters are usually rated for a standard voltage of 220 V.
But everyone who is even a little familiar with the operation of electrical networks understands that for such powerful devices an ordinary outlet can be completely unsuitable.
First you need to assess the condition of the wiring in the apartment or house and find out what maximum load it is designed for. Connecting several high-power devices to one line at the same time can be fatal for the system.
For example, if you turn on the heater and a domestic electric stove / automatic washing machine at the same time, the wiring may burn out, cause a fire, etc.
It is safer and more reliable to lead a separate cable for the water heater from the electrical panel. The most important indicator in this situation is the cross section of the electric cable. The minimum cable cross-section can be calculated using special tables.
In this case, one should take into account the operating voltage, phases, material of which the cable is made, whether the wiring will be hidden, etc. For water heaters, a two-core copper or aluminum cable is usually used, voltage 220 V, single phase.
If the heater is installed in a room with high humidity (bathroom, kitchen, etc.), special waterproof sockets.
In addition, for two-phase boilers, it is almost always necessary to install RCD - protective shutdown device. The cable must also be protected from moisture, as well as strong and sufficiently elastic.
You should not save on cable when buying products of dubious quality. In addition, you need to take an electric cable to connect the storage heater with a sufficient margin. The wire must not be taut.
Before connecting, carefully study the cable markings. Inexperienced beginners sometimes get confused and connect the phase to the ground loop.
If there is no experience in performing electrical work, it makes sense to seek the advice of an experienced electrician or entrust him with the implementation of this stage of installing a water heater.
It is imperative to take care of the grounding of the heater. To do this, you can use a piece of metal wire, one end of which is fixed to the heater body, and the other is connected to the ground loop.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
A description of the installation procedure of the storage water heater is given here:
This video contains a number of useful tips for installing storage-type water heaters:
Accumulative water heaters are popular and reliable, they provide the house with hot water in the required quantity. Installing them is not so difficult, but you must strictly follow the manufacturer's recommendations and safety precautions.
If you have the necessary experience or knowledge on installing storage water heaters, please share it with our readers. Leave your comments at the bottom of the article. There you can ask questions about the topic of the article.
Still, a horizontal water heater, suspended from the ceiling, in my opinion, is much more practical than a vertical one, because it saves space in the kitchen or in the bathroom.It is worth approaching the installation with all responsibility - take the anchor more authentic and thicker to fix it more firmly on the supporting wall. After all, if such a thing falls on a person, it will not seem a little certain!
A horizontal heater saves space but retains heat worse.
In fact, there is nothing complicated in installing the storage tank of the boiler yourself. I dealt with this a little more than an hour. We chose a wall model for 30 liters. As it turned out later, not enough for a family of three people, you need at least 50 liters. Of course, it is better to hang on the wall, which is stronger and take good anchors. Connecting to the water supply also did not cause difficulties.
I will add - the anchor “L” (“G”) - it is better to take the shaped ones not at a right angle but bent forward (from the wall) by 60 degrees, otherwise do not hang the heater with holes in the mounting plate.
The bolt holes can be made not at right angles to the wall, then there will be no problems.