How to repair the toilet with your own hands: analysis of common breakdowns

The toilet is not a particularly complicated device. Back in Soviet times, when the call of plumbing was an almost insoluble task, craftsmen successfully carried out the repair of the toilet with their own hands.

Times have changed, modern plumbing has become more convenient and more difficult, but it’s quite possible to correct some of the shortcomings yourself now. Why do you need to identify the cause of the malfunction and choose the best option for its elimination.

To cope with this task, knowledge about the design of the toilet bowl and understanding of the principle of operation of the fittings located in the tank are useful. We will analyze these issues in detail in our material, which will help us on our own to detect the problem and carry out repairs. And to make it easier for you to understand the breakdowns and the nuances of eliminating them, we have selected visual photos and useful video recommendations.

The device and principle of operation of the toilet

Even the most modern toilet in design is not too different from its predecessor from the last century. He still has a bowl and a tank mounted above it, in which water is accumulated for flushing. Two mechanisms still control the flow of water: shut-off and inlet.

In modern design, these elements are made as valves. The operation of the intake mechanism is still regulated using a float sensor.

Modern fittings usually made of plastic, but there are still long-lived mechanisms where the float is held by a metal lever, or even just a piece of thick wire. Sometimes this is a completely modern fixture made for a retro tank in order to preserve a special style.

Immediately worth mentioning is the “luxury” class devices, which use high-quality fittings. Often the inlet and shutoff mechanism in such devices are a single element.

Entrusting the repair of such expensive plumbing is better for an experienced specialist, so as not to aggravate the breakdown by inept intervention.

The inlet mechanism of the toilet bowl is controlled by a float sensor. To control the water level, you need to change the position of the float

The most popular toilet option in modern apartments is the so-called compact. In it, the tank is mounted directly on the toilet bowl, or rather, on a special shelf made behind. At the junction of the toilet and the tank there is a rubber gasket.

The tank is connected to the water supply using a flexible hose or a piece of plastic pipe of the appropriate diameter. The toilet bowl is also connected to the sewer system using corrugated hose and rubber adapter.

An even more compact version of the toilet is the hanging model. The tank of such a device operates on a similar principle and is also equipped with an intake and locking mechanism.

The tank and fittings for hanging toilets are mounted on the installation and are under decorative decoration. Repairing such a device can be difficult

But the tank itself is located in a niche behind the toilet. It is placed on the installation, which is then masked with a false panel. Such a system makes the tank fittings and the place of its connection to the water supply difficult to access repair.

In this regard, the owners of wall hung toilets are recommended:

• carefully observe the installation rules of the device;
• fine-tune the operation of the tank fittings;
• use high-quality mechanisms with a maximum service life;
• to provide as far as the situation allows, the possibility of easy dismantling of the panel, behind which the installation is hidden.

The principle of operation of the toilet is simple and familiar to almost everyone. When the inlet float drops below the set level, the valve blocking the water pipe opens and the tank starts filling with water. When the water level, and with it the float, reaches the maximum level, the valve closes.

The simplest shut-off valve mechanism is a heavy shutter that is lifted using a lever, rope, chain, etc. More modern and “advanced” versions of the locking mechanism are controlled by a button or pedal. At the bottom of the tank capacity, the receiving part is mounted, and the shutter itself is latched in special clips.

After that, the tank is closed with a lid and a button is installed, which is usually attached to the lever of the locking mechanism. When the button is pressed, the flap rises, water pours out into the toilet, then the mechanism lowers, blocking the outlet. At this moment, the inlet valve is activated, and the tank capacity begins to fill with water.

The following photo selection will familiarize with the functional and constructive components of the tank and shut-off and drain valves with the simplest float device:

Common toilet problems

The most vulnerable in the design of the toilet are the joints, as well as the fittings: membranes, gaskets, moving parts.

In case of breakdowns, the following phenomena can be observed:

• water constantly enters the tank capacity, gradually overflowing it;
• the tank is not completely filled or not filled at all;
• water flows in a small stream from the tank into the toilet;
• to flush, you have to repeatedly press the flush button;
• while filling the bowl the characteristic whistle is heard;
• water flows to the floor near the toilet, etc.

Before starting any repair, the equipment should be prepared for work. To do this, first shut off the tap installed on the water pipe in front of the tank. If there is no such device, you will have to block the entire water supply in the apartment. In most cases, it is necessary to carry out work inside the tank.

To do this, remove the cover from it. First remove the button or lever. Sometimes just lifting it and disconnecting it from the check valve is enough.

If the button is fixed with a decorative ring, first you need to dismantle this element. It is either carefully unscrewed counterclockwise or pry off with a sharp tool and simply removed.

Before removing the tank cap, unscrew or pry off the decorative ring with something sharp, and then remove the flush button

A double button that allows you to adjust the amount of water that moves from the tank to the sewer is increasingly common. To remove it, you should press the small button, then the large one, and then start rotating the element counterclockwise to disconnect it.

The lid is removed from the tank, having previously unscrewed the fasteners, if any.

The double flush button is not much more difficult to remove than the usual one. To do this, you usually need to press the small button, then the large one, after which you can unscrew the decorative ring and dismantle the button

Act carefully. If the ceramic cover breaks, it is not always possible to replace it. Sometimes you have to buy a new tank, or even the entire toilet.

If you have never taken apart the toilet flush tank, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with detailed disassembly instructions.

Manufacturers usually supply both the toilet and the fittings with detailed installation, configuration, and repair instructions.If these documents are preserved, before starting work, you should carefully study them, understanding the design features and operation of all mechanisms. This will help to avoid additional breakdowns and errors.

How to repair?

Problems with the water level in the tank, including its overflow, are associated with a breakdown of the intake valve or with the need to adjust it. If the tank does not fill up or is only partially filled after emptying, most likely there are problems with the float.

The float lying at the bottom of an empty tank was probably leaky and filled with water. It must be disconnected, pour out the water, seal the hole and reinstall. But even a very well-fixed float could soon leak again. It is best to replace it with a new element.

If the situation with the water level in the tank is not so critical, i.e. it is stably dialed and turned off, but its quantity is insufficient or, conversely, too large, you need to check the setting of the tank fittings. It is simple: you need to lower the float lower or raise it higher.

In old tanks, where the float was held by a horizontal piece of metal, this was done very simply. The wire was slightly bent with an arc up or down.

If you bend the wire to which the inlet valve float sensor is attached with the arc up, the float will drop and the water level in the tank will become slightly lower

In the first case, the position of the float became slightly lower, and less water was drawn into the tank. And if the lever is bent down, the position of the float allowed to increase the volume of water in the tank. In modern inlet valves, the float moves up or down along the plastic holder.

In the majority of locking devices used now for the equipment of the drain tank, it is impossible to simply bend the wire. In this case, the repair actions are slightly larger, but they are a little more complicated:

The optimum water level in the filled toilet bowl is usually indicated on the tube by a strip or a small roller.

Water constantly flowing into the toilet reports obvious problems with the locking mechanism.

The inlet valve of a modern tank is quite complicated, but it is also controlled by the movement of the float, the position of which can be changed

Sometimes its lower part is shifted slightly to the side due to design flaws. It is enough to correct the position of the shutter so that the leak stops. If this does not help, or it is obvious that the shutter is not biased, most likely the problem is the wear of the locking mechanism. At the bottom of this device is a special rubber gasket.

When closing the drain hole, it tightly connects to the receiving part installed in the tank. Over time, this rubber element wears out and begins to leak water, which leads to the flow of water into the toilet. To fix the problem, you must either replace only the gasket, or the entire mechanism.

Experienced plumbers recommend the latter, as this is a simpler and more reliable option.Domestic fittings, which are equipped with almost all budget options for toilets, are relatively inexpensive. But the life of such devices is four to five years, or even less.

Leakage between the toilet and the tank usually results from wear rubber padsthat separates them. The problem is resolved by replacing this element:

The exact same device must be purchased to replace the shut-off valve. Before repairing, water is flushed from the toilet, then the damaged valve is simply removed from the clamps. With this part, you should go to the plumbing store to pick up the exact same item. The new part is gently latched into the clamps, after which the repair can be considered completed.

It remains only to replace the tank cap and flush button. There may be a problem at this point. If the shut-off valve has not been pre-adjusted in height, part of it will exit the hole in the cover too high, which will prevent the flush button from being installed.

The length of the shut-off valve of the toilet bowl can be changed by moving the side strips. This is necessary to properly install the flush button.

Before installing a new valve, compare it with the old element and set a suitable height. To regulate the length of the float are two rails located on the sides and fixed in the lower part of the product. They just need to be lowered or raised not a few divisions.

Of course, a shutter valve shaft that is too short is useless; the flush button will not come into contact with it, i.e. the device just won't work.

If there is no suitable shut-off valve in the store, the task is complicated, since these products are not typical. You should not take “something similar”, it is better to consult with an experienced plumber. You may need to completely replace all fittings in the toilet bowl. In this case, it is necessary not only to choose it correctly, but also install and adjust according to manufacturer's instructions.

If water is drawn into the tank with a characteristic whistling noise, most likely there is a clogged filter on the inlet valve. The phenomenon is usually accompanied by a slow or insufficient filling of the tank. The filter is located under the float, and the procedure for cleaning it is usually described in detail in the instructions.

If leaks near the handle are disturbing, the following actions will help to eliminate them:

To clean the filter, unscrew the clamping nut holding it, remove the element, rinse it under running water, and then install it back. Rinse the entire inlet valve as well to clear the ducts from accumulated debris. After that, water in the tank will be typed faster, and extraneous noise will disappear.

If the problem with clogging of the filter and ducts arises too often, it makes sense to take care of filtering the tap water entering the tank. Leaks at the junction indicate that for some reason the seal is broken. The reason may be improper installation of the toilet or simply wear caused by time.

If a leak is observed in places where there is a threaded connection, it should be untwisted and inspected. Worn items such as flexible hoses should be replaced immediately with new ones. If the thread is in order, it should be cleaned of dirt and dried. After that, you need to use a new sealant: flax, FUM tape, etc.

Improper sealing often leads to leaks at threaded joints. To fix the problem, you have to re-seal the thread or completely replace it

Do not wrap too much sealing material, this can lead to deformation of the thread, but the lack of a seal often causes a leak. If the material protrudes slightly beyond the edge of the joint after screwing it on, this is normal, but there should not be too many such surpluses.

It is necessary to wind the seal in the right direction along the thread. If the edge of the thread is directed towards the master, wind the thread or tape clockwise, if from the master - counterclockwise. After twisting, the joint is additionally treated with sealant.

The connection of the toilet to the sewer system is usually done with a corrugation. Leak at this point is caused by depressurization of the connection or damage to the element

Leaking under the toilet usually indicates problems with the corrugated hose that connects the device to the sewer. If worn rubber cuff (usually it happens), it should be replaced, and then thoroughly treated with sealant. Sometimes the corrugation itself fails, it will also have to be completely replaced.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The repair of the current toilet is presented in detail in the following video:

If there is an understanding of the principles of the device and the operation of the toilet, as well as its fittings, then minor repairs will be carried out without any problems. Of course, it is necessary to observe the technology of work, and in particularly difficult cases it is better to attract an experienced plumber.

Have you repeatedly encountered various kinds of toilet breakdowns and were engaged in its repair? Share your experience with beginners - tell us what kind of malfunctions you have fixed yourself, and in which cases you could not do without calling the plumber. Perhaps you want to leave useful recommendations - write your opinion and advice in the comments section.