DIY LG washing machine repair: frequent breakdowns and troubleshooting instructions

LG's South Korean washing equipment is very popular due to its reliability and functionality. It contains complex technical units and simple details, which you can replace yourself. It is not necessary to immediately run to a service center after detecting a malfunction. After all, saving where you can not spend is always useful, right?

Those who want to repair the LG washing machine with their own hands will learn from us about the common types of breakdowns and methods of dealing with violations of the washing machine. With our help, independent repairmen will solve any technical problem without problems and difficulties.

In the article brought to your attention, the types of malfunctions that occur during the operation of LG machines are thoroughly analyzed. Options for their elimination are described taking into account the manufacturer's recommendations and design features. Visual videos and photo applications will assist in the development of a difficult topic.

The principle of operation of the washing machine

What does a washing machine do? In fact, it fills the water inside the case, heats it and spins the drum, filled with dirty linen. This happens in a certain way, which ultimately leads to cleaning the laundry from contamination.

Now a little more. As soon as the washing program has been started, the first step is to open the water supply valve. Water flows through the dispenser into the tank.

Typical faults for LG washing machines, most often occurring during operation, are listed in the instructions for the unit

Important parts of the machine that you need to know:

• Dispenser - a box for detergents.
• Tank - a plastic container in which the drum and the heating element (TEN) are located. Water is poured into it.
• Pressure switch - He's a pressure switch. In washing machines, monitors the water level.
• TEN - tubular electric heater. Heats the water.

The pressure switch gives the go-ahead to stop the flow of water as soon as the required volume is gained. Then turns on the heater.Near the heating element there is always a water temperature sensor (thermostat) As soon as he reports that the water has heated strictly to the desired temperature, a motor comes into play that rotates the drum.

Toward the end of the wash starts to work water pump - this is most often called a water drain pump. It ends the “production cycle” of the washing machine and with it begins the analysis of typical malfunctions of LG brand machines.

The layout of the washing machine with horizontal loading. To start the repair, you need to get acquainted with all the details of their purpose

Common types of breakdowns

The nodes of the washing machine are electromechanical devices that move under the influence of current. They work under load, they are exposed to tap water and temperature changes.

Here is a list of what might break:

• electric door lock;
• filling valve;
• pressure switch;
• TEN;
• temperature sensor;
• electric motor;
• speed sensor (“Hall sensor”);
• drum bearings;
• water pump;
• electrician (wire connections);
• gaskets and hoses.

If the machine has drying and steaming functions, a few more items are added: a steam generator, an air heater, a fan, an air temperature sensor.

The modern generation of washing machines is equipped with direct drive. The engine in such systems crashes much less frequently than other components

But the most popular reasons for contacting service centers are the failure of the pump, heater, flooding valve, pressure switch, electrics and bearings.

Generally washing machines LG very reliable and, in comparison with other brands common in Russia, break much less often.

Diagnostics and repair of the main components of the machine

Washing machines do not fundamentally differ from each other. The descriptions given here will help you navigate their device (even if your machine is not LG).

The first stage of repair work is diagnostics. Do not start replacing parts without fully verifying the cause of the breakdown. The failure of a particular element is signaled by special signs. New generation machines have a system hint codesthat help determine the location and cause of the failure.

To assemble / disassemble the housing, dismantle the washing organs, you need to prepare a convenient tool in advance. If there are suspicions of problems in the electrical part, it is advisable to stock up with a multimeter

For most operations, a Phillips screwdriver will suffice. Pliers and wire cutters will help in some way, but somewhere you will have to use keys and heads for 10 and 14. For more complicated repairs (for example, replacing bearings), more cunning devices will be needed.

To facilitate the task, it is recommended to take paper tape and markers. Before disconnecting the wires, label them with tape from multi-colored numbers. Take a picture so that later it is guaranteed to assemble correctly.

The construction level will help a lot. After the repair, you will need to make sure that the machine is level and, if necessary, adjust the legs

Most nodes and individual devices of the washing machine are not repaired. For example, when it burns out TEN, it needs to be changed entirely. To find a suitable model for sale, find out the model number of your machine (“Model No”) And its serial number (“S / No" or "Serial no”). They are written on a sticker or plate. Look for her on the case: under the door of the drum, behind, on the side.

Before installing a new part, be sure to turn off the plug again. Many nodes operate on deadly 220 volts.

Replace the drain pump according to the rules.

The washing machine does not drain, the display shows an error code “OE”. Everything is simple - this is a pump, and it did not necessarily break.

Usually, during the discharge, a characteristic sound is clearly audible - the impeller of the pump rotates. You can see it at work without even taking it apart.To do this, you need to open a large round cork - it is located in the lower right corner, under the hatch or plastic panel on the latches. Be careful: water will flow!

The pump plug is one with the filter. The purpose of the filter is to prevent debris from entering the impeller. It is recommended to clean it after two or three washing sessions, and in old machines every time the workflow is completed

Even if the impeller does not spin, it could simply become clogged. First thing drain the water. Near a large round cork, you can find a thin tube closed by a small cork. Substituting a large flat container, gently pull out the tube and open it. And be patient.

Another way to drain the water is to lower the drain hose to floor level. Most likely, it is fixed with clamps on the back wall. When the tank is empty, you can safely open the cork of the pump and get everything extraneous that you find there.

It is possible that all problems were associated only with clogging of the drainage system. It will be necessary to clean it corny, which will help a detailed video instruction:

If the pump nevertheless breaks down, you will have to disassemble the car a little:

1. Remove the plug from the outlet.
2. Take out the dispenser. It will be necessary to tilt the machine, and usually water remains in the dispenser, which can spill.
3. Remove the bottom plastic panel. It is fastened with two self-tapping screws and latches around the perimeter.
4. Tilt the machine or place it on your left side (the pump is usually located on the right).

Now you can test the pump multimeter and take it off. Even if good electric chainThe pump could wear out mechanically. In such cases, the machine does not always agree to drain the water, and the impeller can hang on its axis.

The drain system pump requires careful examination of the condition of both the mechanical and electrical parts. True practice proves that the overwhelming majority of breakdowns are associated with clogging of the device

So, you have diagnosed a pump malfunction or are not sure if it works. You can take the device to a household appliance service to ensure that it is working properly.

If you are sure that washing machine pump defective - change, for this:

1. Remove the dispenser - there may be water left in it.
2. Remove the bottom plastic panel: unscrew the two screws and gently pry the edges, starting from the top. Better to do it with a chisel than a screwdriver - there will be less damage.
3. Put the machine on its left side.

Wires and hoses are connected to the pump. The wiring terminals are pulled out by hand (do not forget to tag and photograph them). To remove the hoses, you need to unclip the clamps with your fingers or pliers. When everything is turned off, unscrew the three self-tapping screws around the filter plug.

Pump without filter - straight and side view. Most often, there is no need to buy a pump assembly with a filter, since the filter does not need to be replaced

You may not find the exact same part for sale. But there are very few varieties of drain pumps, and almost every one fits into dozens of different models of washing machines. Perhaps the easiest way is to contact the nearest service for a new part.

Before installing a new pump, clean dirt and deposits. They can greatly affect the life of the impeller.

It will be more convenient to first screw the pump with screws, then connect the hoses and wires. Remember to close the cork. Put the machine in place and start “idle” some shortest cycle, for example, “Rinse and spin" After making sure that everything works, you can assemble the car completely.

After replacing the drain pump, do not immediately assemble the housing. First you need to check how the newly installed device works. You can verify its performance by running one of the short programs

Installing a new water heater

Error code - “HE”. Another sign is that the door glass is cold, while according to the program the water should be 40 ° C.

To make sure that water heating device - TEN defective, you need to remove the back cover, for this you will need a Phillips screwdriver. First, unplug the plug, then unscrew the four screws and pull the lid slightly up.

The heating element is located at the very bottom of the tank, three wires are suitable for it. The middle one is grounding, and the extreme ones are power, 220 volts. Disconnect these terminals and check the heater. multimeter.

Measure the resistance at the power terminals - should be within 200 Ohms, but above zero. If the device shows a unit, then the spiral burned out

Disconnect the wires. To extract TEN, you need to unscrew the nut in the middle and “drown” the stud. Using a screwdriver, pull out the heater as far as possible.

Now remove the rubber seal by prying its edges with a flat screwdriver. Do not touch the edges of the hole! The slightest notches will break the tightness.

After loosening the nut and removing the seal, the heater must come out unhindered. Protect the plastic visor above the heating element - it breaks easily

The new heating element is sold complete with a seal. Buying it, you will surely pay attention to the lack of an internal side with an elastic band: let this not bother you. It formed over time, as the seal was sandwiched between the heater and the inner plate.

Your heater may have a built-in temperature sensor. If it is working, then changing it is not necessary. There is a bracket inside the tank - the heater must get into it. Having inserted it to the end, spin the drum by hand. If a scraping sound is heard, the heater passed above the bracket.

There is also a danger of overshot, and then the tank will suffer from high temperature. Now tighten the nut, but without much effort. Pour water into the tank. You can directly through the drum, for example, from the shower. Make sure that the seal does not leak, if necessary, tighten the nut slightly.

Professional guidance on the replacement of the heater is presented in the video:

Jam Valve Repair Options

Problems with the intake valve can manifest themselves in different ways.

If there is little water entering the machine, the inlet filter may be clogged. To clean it, disconnect the inlet hose, remove the mesh and clean it mechanically, for example, washing under running water or a toothpick

Problem # 1. Water is collected slowly, the powder in the dispenser is not completely washed off. Perhaps the weak pressure of water is to blame. If not, then the filter is clogged.

1. Shut off the water supply to the washing machine.
2. Unscrew the inlet hose directly at the inlet to the machine.
3. Use a pair of pliers to remove the filter.

Most likely, the plastic mesh is clogged. It can be cleaned with a toothpick under running water.

Problem # 2. Water does not accumulate. Error code may be displayed. “IE”.

First check the filter as described in the previous paragraph. If cleaning does not help, you need to get to the valve and check it with a multimeter. To do this, unplug the plug and remove the top cover - it is fastened with two screws on the back. Having unscrewed them, slide the cover a little back, and then it will be removed without effort.

The inlet valve, as you might guess, is located immediately in the place where the inlet hose was screwed. Valves can be from one to five, but most often there are two

Make sure that the power cord is not in an electrical outlet. Now disconnect the terminals from the valves. Use a multimeter to check the resistance: it should be within 2.5 - 4 kOhm.

Problem # 3. The machine doesn’t wash, but the water rumbles inside. It makes no sense to check the electrical part of the valves - this is mechanical wear. A valve is not a very expensive part; it is usually not repaired. Just in case, mark the wires and take a picture of how it was. Replacement Procedure:

1. Remove the plug from the outlet (most often 220 volts are supplied to the valves).
2. Shut off the water.
3. Remove the top cover by unscrewing the two screws on the back and sliding it a little back.
4. Disconnect the wires and hoses from the valves.

The valve is fastened with self-tapping screws or special latches.In the second case, you need to crank it, while simultaneously pressing on the plastic bulges from the outside. There should not be any difficulties with the installation of a new spare part.

DIY pressure switch replacement

When out of order pressure switch, the machine is collecting too much water. It happens that water is constantly collected and simultaneously drained. Sometimes the breakdown of this sensor is manifested in poorly pressed laundry. Display may show error code. “PE”.

The pressure switch is located under the cover itself, usually in the right corner. A thin hose and electrical wires are connected to it.

It is easy to remove this sensor. Remove the plug from the outlet, remove the top cover by unscrewing two screws on the back and sliding it a little back.

It is fastened with one self-tapping screw. First disconnect the terminal, then remove the sensor, and finally disconnect the hose from it. pressure switch, you need to blow into it. In good condition pressostat you will hear a click. Install new pressure switch in reverse order.

Recommendations for repairing electricians

The hardest thing to diagnose is a wiring problem. The electrics of the washing machine are responsible for the operation of all systems, and disturbances in contacts lead to a variety of consequences.

If you are not sure what exactly failed, check the electrician. Unplug the power cord, open the back and top covers. You can remove the bottom plastic panel if there is a problem with the drain.

Systematically inspect all wires and their connections:

• The terminals should be clean and shiny.
• The color of the insulation of the wires should be bright and uniform.
• Water should not get on wires and contacts.

When inspecting the inside of the washer, you may find wiring problems.

It can be:

• oxidized contacts (white or green rough coating);
• darkened or whitened insulation;
• partially destroyed, cracked or burnt insulation;
• wet contacts.

If water gets on the contacts, wipe or dry them. Be sure to repair leaks. Oxidized terminals are not enough to strip. Perhaps moisture constantly gets on them, so you have to find and eliminate the cause.

Darkening on wires is a sign of overheating. The reason is again bad contact. The insulation must be intact, as well as the clamps that secure the wires

Oxidized contacts are best replaced. If possible, find the opposite end of this wire and replace it whole. For such repairs, you will have to make friends with a 60-watt soldering iron. As a temporary measure, you can strip the contact, but re-examine after a couple of weeks.

If the insulation is broken, the wire definitely needs to be replaced. Darkened insulation is also a sign of poor contact and, as a result, overheating of the wire. Sooner or later, the insulation will melt, a short circuit and fire can occur.

Bearing Replacement Instructions

These are perhaps the biggest hard workers in the washing machine. They carry the entire load of rotatable wet laundry and the weight of the drum. A damaged bearing can be heard immediately: an unpleasant hum appears, especially loud during spin.

The bearings are protected against water by an oil seal, which can also wear out. In this case, the water will leak to the bearings, and then they will have a slow but sure death. Buzz is a very reliable indicator. As soon as it appears, get involved in the repair without delay. Procrastination can lead to more costly consequences.

Two bearings - this is the only thing that keeps the drum in a horizontal position. With strong wear of the bearings, wear of the tank and the spider (bracket) begins

The most complicated operation described here is bearing replacement. But ignoring the buzz, you run the risk of making things even harder.

Due to spoiled bearings, the drum rotates with exertion. The bearings begin to break the tank and the power element of the drum - the cross. There is a possibility that the bearings began to rust due to wear of the stuffing box. In this case, water from the tank will flow to the engine.Imagine the consequences.

By delaying the replacement of the bearing, you run the risk of completely losing the crosspiece, tank and even the engine. Repair will cost much more

To replace the bearings, you need to disassemble almost the entire machine. The point is to remove the tank, disassemble it and remove the drum from it.

In addition to screwdrivers, you will need to work:

• head for 10;
• key or head at 14;
• pliers;
• nippers;
• clamps for wiring (polypropylene ties);
• simple silicone sealant (not glue!).

Gloves and a flashlight will also help a lot.

Unplug the power cord. Remove the back wall and disconnect the wires going to the motor and heater. Remove all the fasteners that secure the wires to the tank, cut the clamps with wire cutters. The tank itself hangs on two springs and is supported from below by two shock absorbers.

How to remove the dispenser drawer: press the latch in the middle. It’s generally useful to sometimes take it out and wash it so that mold does not form

Most likely you have a direct drive car. So you have to remove washing machine motor. Loosen the center screw while holding the drum by hand.

Be careful not to cut yourself on the edge of the case. Remove the rotor (moving part of the motor), then unscrew and remove the stator (respectively, the fixed part).

In washing machines with a belt drive, you must first remove the belt: pull it towards you and rotate the pulley (wheel). The belt can be removed without difficulty. The pulley also needs to be unscrewed

Around the hatch into which the laundry is loaded, there is a large elastic cuff. A spring clamp surrounds her. Find this spring and pick it up with a screwdriver and remove the clamp.

After dismantling the clamp, proceed as follows:

1. Now you can remove the front panel. It is held by screws on the upper and lower edges. Pull the panel up a bit. Disconnect the wires going to the lock.
2. Remove the pipes from the bottom (water may remain inside!) And the thin hose going up to the pressure switch.
3. Remove the jumper on which the front edge of the top cover rests.
4. Remove the dispenser and filler valve.
5. With your head 10, unscrew the balances - one on top and two on the front.

It remains to disconnect the shock absorbers. They are attached with plastic pins; press the spring latches on the pointed ends of the pins and remove them (you can use pliers).

Make sure you disconnect everything. Now you can raise the tank and unhook the springs. Gently pull the tank forward. Do not forget that the water level control pipe is screwed on from below, which can be accidentally broken. For peace of mind you can remove it.

Further it will be more convenient to work on the table. At this stage, you need to disassemble the tank and remove the stuffing box and bearings from it. The tank consists of two parts, twisted by screws under the head by 10. Disassemble the tank.

The drum is simply removed from the rear half of the tank without much difficulty. Next, we need only the rear half (forecastle). When working with it, remember about the heater - do not bend or break it.

The puller of internal bearings will greatly facilitate the task. If you do not have such a tool, beat them with a hammer and punch. As a punch, any rod of suitable length is suitable

In the center of the forecastle, on the inside, you will see an oil seal. It must also be replaced. It will not be difficult to pull it out, using something as a lever (for example, a flat screwdriver). Lay the forecastle with its outer side up and insert the punch through the outer bearing - first we knock out the inner one.

Beat it carefully! If the bearing is skewed, it can damage the forecastle. Shots should not be strong. Alternate places of impact according to the principle of “crosswise”: first strike on the left edge, then on the right, then on the top, then on the bottom, and so on in the same order. Make sure that the bearing comes out smoothly, without distortions.

When driving the bearing, proceed carefully. Beat only on the outer clip. Instead of a punch, it is better to use a pipe of the appropriate diameter

The external bearing is knocked out according to the same principle, only the forecastle must be turned over and propped up so that the bearing “hangs” above the table.

Installing new bearings and packing requires even more caution. You can hit only on the outer ring of the bearing. Using a punch, constantly check if the bearing is skewed.

Comprehensive instruction on replacing bearings with all the nuances will present the video:

Putting a new oil seal should also be careful - it is easy to bend. Do not try to straighten it, it is better to buy another one.

The slightest flaws in the installation of these parts will lead to leakage - water will fall on the bearings and then on the engine. Before assembling, try to clean the axis of the drum. Do not scratch or sand it.

The drum should fit easily into the bearings. Before assembling the tank, apply silicone sealant to the joint. Connecting the half tanks, make sure that TEN hit the bracket intended for him. Do not tighten the screws with all your might - this is not necessary. Thanks to the sealant, the connection will be quite reliable.

If all the steps for replacing the bearing were performed correctly, the tank can easily be connected to the assembly. After installation, the joint must be sealed.

Screw the water level control tube to the tank. Then you just have to assemble the car. There should not be any difficulties. It is more convenient to work in this order:

1. Hang the tank on the springs, attach the shock absorbers.
2. Connect the hose pressure switch and fix it on the tank. The “extra” hose length should remain at the top.
3. Install the counterweights.
4. Attach the lower branch pipes.
5. Screw the motor stator, connect the connectors to the stator and the heating element, secure the wires with clamps and brackets.
6. Install the dispenser and the filler valve, connect the nozzles and wires.
7. Screw the upper front jumper.
8. Install the large front panel by pre-connecting the lock connector.
9. Pull the edge of the cuff and put it on the side around the hatch. Put on a collar a collar.
10. Install the engine rotor (or pulley). While tightening the center screw, hold the tank by hand from the front.
11. Connect the wires to the top panel and install it.

Check again if everything is connected and fixed.

Before installing the remaining panels, you can run a short “idle” program to check the tightness of all connections. Once the machine is in place, align it with the level.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Replacing parts in the washing machine is a responsible matter. To take into account all the nuances and perform the work “excellently”, we suggest studying useful information on the nuances of assembling and disassembling the LG typewriter presented in the video:

So, you have familiarized yourself with the most common malfunctions of LG washing machines. Repairing them with your own hands is not always easy, but quite possible. Give it a try! Good luck in the repair!

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