DIY bathtub painting using epoxy enamel and liquid acrylic
A spoiled bath is a quite ordinary phenomenon. Time goes by, chips, dirt, even rust streaks appear on the enamel surface. Complete replacement of such plumbing is a troublesome and expensive task. It will be much cheaper to paint the bath with your own hands, the performance features of which are worth familiarizing with. Do you agree?
We will tell you how to perform this work using epoxy enamel or liquid acrylic. In the article we presented, the process of preparing plumbing and the technology of applying a new coating on its surface are described in detail. Based on our tips, you can successfully update the bath yourself.
The content of the article:
General work procedure
Restoring the bath cover is not an easy task. The whole complex of work will take several days, and possibly several weeks.
In addition to tools and materials, you need to prepare a set of workwear and protective equipment. The repair compound has an unpleasant odor and emits hazardous volatile substances during the drying process.
It is necessary to protect the respiratory organs with a respirator with a high class of protection. As an alternative, you can use any model of gas mask. For those with sensitive eyes, they also don’t put on good goggles.
To restore the coating of the bath, it is necessary to do a number of operations:
- Free the bathroom from all the things that can be taken out.
- Cover all stationary plumbing with protective film and carefully fix the coating with tape or masking tape.
- To clean a surface of old enamel to remove pollution and to give to the basis an even roughness.
- If necessary, repair deep damage to the surface.
- Dust off the cleaned surface and degrease it.
- Apply a coat of enamel or acrylic.
- Wait for the restored surface to dry.
In the process of work, it is necessary to dismantle the drain and overflow piping.But the bath will have to be filled with water, so connect the bath to the sewer, and then have to turn it off again several times. Do not use the bathroom during repairs so that contaminants do not accidentally get onto the surface. This rule is relevant at almost all stages of repair.
Due to the pungent odor during drying of the repaired surface, it is recommended to ventilate the room intensively. This is not only about the bathroom, but about the whole apartment or house. Therefore, family members at the time of repair is better to relocate: to the cottage, to friends, on vacation, etc.
A difficult choice: enamel or acrylic?
These materials vary in composition, preparation method, and application technology. Enamel based on epoxy resin is known for longer: it has been used for about two decades, respectively, there are fewer pitfalls in working with this composition. Liquid acrylic is a novelty in the construction market, but it already has ardent fans.
The acrylic composition is more difficult to prepare for application, but the repair process itself is relatively simple. Firstly, the ratio of acrylic base to liquid hardener must be strictly observed. According to the consistency, these components are very different, therefore, the mixing process can be difficult.
With epoxy enamel, the opposite is true. It is not so exacting to exact proportions, the presence of special substances capable of improving the quality of the coating is allowed. But the surface treatment process requires a more careful approach.
It is worth considering that acrylic compositions are usually more expensive than epoxy enamels. Experienced craftsmen recommend that beginners in the restoration of bathtubs opt for acrylic. It is better to work with epoxy for those who already have experience in using enamels.
The subtleties of choosing enamel to restore the decorative and operational qualities of the bath given in the article, the content of which we recommend to read.
In any case, when preparing the repair composition, the manufacturer's instructions should be strictly followed, since this is an important point that will definitely affect the final result of the repair work. If the repair technology is followed at every stage, then the new coating, both enamel and acrylic, will last about two decades.
The processes of applying acrylic and epoxy enamel have similar and different stages. Consider the filling of an acrylic composition as an example to understand the essence of the action.
After completing the full range of preparatory work, we proceed to applying acrylic enamel on the surface of the plumbing.
Preparation of the base for repair
Proper preparation of the bath surface for restoration is one of the most important points of this process. Even small, inconspicuous flaws at this stage can negatively affect the final result.
During preparation, it is necessary to solve the following tasks:
- remove dirt from the bath, rust streaks, etc .;
- give the surface an even fine roughness;
- to clear the basis of the appeared dust;
- completely degrease the surface.
Thermal deformation is the main reason for the violation of the integrity of the finished coating. These processes occur during drying of the coating due to the difference in the sizes of microroughness created on the surface of the substrate during pre-treatment.
Removing contaminants from the surface of the bath is carried out using active detergents. Pemolux, powdered oxalic acid, or other similar remedy will do. The powder is poured onto the bottom of the bath and a small amount of water is added to it to obtain a pasty composition.
With the top ten cleaning products to remove contaminants from the surface of the bath will introduce the articlefully dedicated to this subject.
Using a sponge or brush, this slurry is smeared on the surface of the bath and left for about 10-15 minutes. It is best to use a new sponge, as there may be minor grease contamination on the old sponge, which will complicate surface preparation.
After that, the cleaning composition must be washed off the walls of the bath, and fill it to the brim with hot water. Water is left for another 15-20 minutes, and then it is lowered into the sewer. While working with a cleaning agent, the bathroom should be ventilated, and the skin and respiratory tract must be protected by individual means.
This advice is especially relevant if oxalic acid or another dangerous substance is used as a cleaner. After that, you can start cleaning the surface with abrasive products. Traditionally, rust and stains remove coarse emery paper, and then finer abrasives are applied.
So cleaning the surface is faster and more efficient, but this is the wrong way when working with enamels for the bath. With this processing method, microroughnesses of different sizes are formed on the surface, although this difference cannot be determined visually or tactilely.
When applying a coating to an uneven surface created in this way, the repair composition will not fill all the recesses. During drying, these micro-voids will create excessive stress, which will subsequently cause deformation of the coating.
To sand the surface of the bath under the enamel correctly, it is recommended to arm yourself with sandpaper No. 1 and a lot of patience. The work will go much slower, but the bumps will be almost the same size. This will positively affect the drying process of the coating and significantly improve its quality.
All places where there are streaks of rust should be thoroughly sanded. Of course, ugly spots under a layer of dense enamel or acrylic will be reliably hidden. But the presence of iron oxide residues on the surface will disrupt the microrelief created during abrasive treatment.
As a result, there will appear places where the probability of coating cracking is very high. In the presence of severe impurities, the complete removal of old enamel in such places is allowed up to the exposure of the metal base.
At the end of surface cleaning, you need to perform one more operation: dismantle the drain and overflow. A surface that exposes as a result also needs to be cleaned. A drill with a durex is suitable here. Processing is carried out until the pollution disappears and the surface acquires the necessary haze.
It’s easy to check the quality of processing: hold it with a fingernail, it should not slip. Particularly meticulous craftsmen inspect the surface with the help of an LED flashlight and clean out places that give shine again.
Now you need to remove the dust accumulated inside the bath, and also degrease the working surface. At this stage, you will have to restore the drain piping and dismantle it again.
The following recommendation is mandatory for compliance: do not touch the work surface with your hands. Installation / dismantling of the drain is carried out using tools (tweezers, pliers, etc.), it is better to prepare them in advance.
First, the bulk of the dust from the bath is removed with a vacuum cleaner. After that, the surface is wiped with a clean cloth moistened with solvent until no dirt remains on the cloth. Upon completion of the entire coating cycle bath tub will have to recover.
Now you need to close the drain hole and pour into the bath approximately 500-1000 ml of an active detergent based on acid, for example, Sanox. Alkaline cleaners are not acceptable at this stage. The composition is thoroughly rubbed on the surface of the bath using another new sponge. The bath rubbed with an acid cleaner is left for about an hour and a half.
After that, the bath is filled with water to the edge and kept in this form for another half hour. If everything is done correctly, the bath itself will noticeably heat up. If its surface feels like it is slightly warm, it means that the amount of acid cleanser is not enough, you need to add another liter of this product to the water.
Water can only be drained after the working surface has cooled down. After that, you need to rinse with bath water two or three more times: draw water, wait an hour and a half, drain, etc. If the situation allows, fivefold washing will not hurt.
The quality of degreasing is checked as follows: wipe the surface with a rag soaked in a solvent, it must remain clean. Then a hose with a shower head is attached to the tap and the walls of the bath are watered. If water flows down a layer, but not drops, then everything is in order.
Now the surface needs to be quickly and thoroughly dried with a construction hairdryer. Quickly, because dirt can get into the dry bath from above, and this is unacceptable. At this, the preparation of the bath for coating can be considered complete.
Application of epoxy enamel
First you need to prepare the composition, i.e. mix base and hardener. In a delicate matter enamel bathtubs First of all, you should be guided by the instructions attached to the product by the manufacturer. But there are a couple of common nuances that experienced craftsmen consider important.
For example, you should not immediately prepare the entire volume of epoxy enamel, which is contained in the package, because over time the properties of the composition deteriorate, and the term of its “life” in the finished form is small. An inexperienced master may not have time to use the entire volume in the allotted time.
The quality of the coating will be significantly higher if you prepare and apply epoxy enamel in separate portions of approximately 250 ml each. Both the base and hardener must first be divided into separate portions in order to mix them as necessary.
During the preparation of epoxy enamel, dibutyl phthalate is recommended to be added to the finished mixture. This is a plasticizer that will improve the ductile properties of epoxy enamel. In everyday life, dibutyl phthalate is used to repel mosquitoes, as well as when working with fiberglass compounds.
The amount of additive should not exceed 5% of the total volume of epoxy enamel. Often, before mixing the composition, it is recommended to warm the base. Experts recommend using a water bath for this.
During staining, touching the surface or enamel with your hands is strictly not recommended. Therefore, you should prepare the tweezers in advance. Hair can come out of the brush with which the work is done and stay on the enamel surface. They should be removed immediately and only with tweezers.
Technology bath staining It looks like this: a lot of enamel is generously typed on the brush and applied with a continuous smear from the bottom up. Then, with the same brush, the enamel is distributed to the sides of the first smear. The following smear is done the same way: from the bottom to the top edge.
The distance between the vertical strips should be such that when distributing the enamel to the sides, individual sections overlap by about half. After the first primer coat of enamel is applied, you need to wait for it to dry, usually about 15-20 minutes.
After this, a second coat can be applied. The technology for applying it is the same: from the bottom up and grind to the sides. Experienced craftsmen also recommend observing the procedure for processing individual sections, i.e. start applying the second layer in the same place as the first, and then move in the same direction.
This will provide the desired drying speed and optimal internal coating structure. About a quarter of an hour after applying the epoxy enamel, it is necessary to check the surface for sagging and sagging. They are eliminated by a gentle movement of the brush in an upward direction.
Inflows in the area of discharge-overflow can be left until completely dry. It will be more convenient to cut them off with a knife later. It should be borne in mind that the total thickness of the coating of the bath will be slightly larger. Therefore, it may be necessary to replace old gaskets with new ones or in a different fit of the harness.
Full drying of the surface usually lasts from three days to a week, after which the bath can be used in normal mode. Of course, the above information, for example, about the drying time of the coating, must be checked with the instructions prepared for a particular epoxy enamel.
Liquid Acrylic Bath Treatment
Unlike epoxy enamel, liquid acrylic is not divided into portions, but is kneaded all at once. The life of the finished substance is about one and a half hours, but this is enough to paint the entire surface of the bathtub with acrylic. It is very important to mix the components correctly, do not rush.
The plasticizer should not be added to liquid acrylic in any form. Permissible introduction of a special dye in an amount of 3-5% of the total volume of the finished composition. The coloring component gives the composition a color cast. With the right dosage, it does not impair the strength of the acrylic coating.
Some experts recommend using a brush or roller to apply the composition, but most often the composition is simply poured onto the prepared surface. With a brush or trowel, the composition can only be pushed a little if it is necessary, for example, to completely fill the rounded top of the rim, but without auxiliary tools this does not work.
Before pouring liquid acrylic drain and overflow fittings must be dismantled. Part of the composition can pour out through the drain hole, this is completely normal. To collect excess acrylic, an unnecessary container is placed under the drain, for example, a cut-off plastic bottle or a half-liter glass jar.
Start pouring acrylic from the top of the rim. When the jet reaches approximately the middle of the height of the bathtub, the container with liquid acrylic begins to smoothly move to the side until the entire upper part of the rim has been processed. The filling should be continued, but now the composition needs to be poured from the middle of the side to the bottom, thus making another circle around the perimeter of the bath.
After that, the bath is simply left to dry completely. Acrylic is evenly distributed on its surface and hardens, forming a durable surface. Now, from under the drain hole, you need to remove the container with excess acrylic and restore the drain-overflow piping. The influx is carefully cut with a knife.
Introduces methods for eliminating common cast-iron bath problems next article, which details all the characteristic damage and options for dealing with them.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Practical recommendations for restoring a bath coating using epoxy enamel are presented in the following video:
Useful information on using PlastAll liquid acrylic is contained in this video:
Restoring the coating of a bathtub with epoxy enamel or liquid acrylic cannot be called simple or easy. To get a truly reliable result, you should carefully prepare the surface, and then precisely observe the technology of work and the conditions for their implementation.
Tell us about how you restored the enamel of your own bath. It is possible that you know an effective way to repair plumbing, not given in the article. Please write comments in the block below, share useful information and photos on the topic.
We have an old cast-iron bathtub, the view is already stale. There is no rust, but there are spots on the surface that can no longer be cleaned with any detergents. At first they just wanted to buy a new one, but then they decided to try to restore this one. I would like to do this with acrylic. But just tormented by the question, how long will the acrylic stay on the bath? How long does the applied acrylic last? And is it possible to clean the acrylic-coated surface with powder or do I need some specific gentle care?
Acrylic coating does not last long, after 5 years we have already updated. And yes, it is very gentle, it can not only be treated with aggressive cleaning agents, but in general it must be handled very carefully.For example, you can’t put anything heavy in the bath (like a bench for a disabled person) - first you need to lay a rubber mat. If you have the opportunity to replace the bath, it is better to change.
Hello. If you believe the reviews, then it can last 10 years with careful use.
For cleaning, it is best to use soft rags and sponges, specialized products that do not contain abrasives, alkali, acids, ammonia.