How to arrange a septic tank from tires with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Are you going to sewer in a private house, but have a very limited budget? This is not a reason to deprive yourself of amenities, is not it? Or did you decide to build a septic tank from tires using improvised materials for these purposes? But you doubt your own strengths and do not know where to start?

We will help you to understand this issue in detail - the article discusses the running options for the device of a local treatment plant, for which you can use your old automobile rubber. This material is easy to find in trucking companies, where it is simply written off as unnecessary, or to search for ads by individuals.

The article also provides detailed instructions for making a home-made septic tank, starting with calculations and ending with laying a sewer pipeline. All actions are accompanied by step-by-step photographs.

In order to help the novice master, video recommendations on arranging this type of septic tank with useful tips on making tight joints of pipeline sections from the masters were selected.

Arguments in favor of improvised means

How much can you save on a septic tank if you use old tires? One medium-sized concrete ring costs 4,500 p. they need at least three. The cost of a worn tire does not exceed 2,000 p., And they require at least three or four.

Cumulative tank series capacity, for example, costs an average of about 18 thousand rubles. Even without taking into account concrete foundations and covers for wells, the savings will be about 6,000 - 8,000 p.

The use of automobile tires in the construction of septic tanks solves two important issues at once.Allows you to organize the sewerage of a private house and get rid of the need for disposal of virtually non-destructible rubber

But such a septic tank has a much shorter service life than concrete or plastic structures. The reason is the lack of solidity of the case, the small weight of the tires and poor sealing between them.

During ground movements, displacements of elements often occur. True, if you use a certain technology, then such a septic tank will last longer, and it will be possible to pump out sewage less often.

Rules for the arrangement of a septic tank

Any construction work, including communication, requires permission from the administration if the depth of the facility exceeds 5 m.

It is easy to arrange it if the site is surveyed according to the new rules. They entered into force as amended by the Land Code of the Russian Federation in 2014. Old cadastral passports of sites need to be redone. The cost of land surveying is about 6,000 p.

If it is discovered that a communication cable is lying in the territory of a private house, an additional permission of specialists will be required.

To do this, you need to contact the military unit to which this cable belongs. They will send a specialist with a metal detector who will determine exactly where to dig.

Location of the tank on the site

When permission is obtained, select the appropriate location for the drain tank. There are certain SANPIN normsto be observed.

If you place a sewage storage tank or a sewage treatment plant next to a source of drinking water, the effluent, with possible clogging and leaks, will fall into groundwater.

As a result, leaks will make the water unfit for drinking. Infection can be avoided if the septic tank is sealed and a filtration system is arranged for tertiary treatment.

It is impossible to place a septic tank near the foundation of a house or a bath, otherwise during the excavation period the soil may settle, and after it the concrete base of the structure will sink and deform. With possible blockages, the foundation may become wet and gradually lose strength.

But the tank should not be located too far from home.The large distance between the outlet point of the sewer from the house and the treatment facility will significantly increase the cost of organizing the system.

It will be necessary to lay a long section of the pipeline, which will need to be provided with inspection wells.

The outer part of the local sewer network must be provided with at least one manhole. If the length of the line is more than 25 m, an additional well will be required to audit and clean the system.

In addition, an excessively long pipeline often leads to the formation of blockages. This should not be forgotten, even if a pump will be installed for pumping sewage.

Sewer pipe outlet

First you need to worry with creating a circuit. Installation of an autonomous sewer network begins with an exhaust device. After that, the risers are assembled in the direction from the bottom up, connecting the crosspieces, tees and the construction of floor bends.

Installation of the system is carried out along pre-prepared tracks with punched gates, holes for fixing pipes, made and plastered niches, with a developed trench for the outer branch.

If the house is old, it probably has a cellar or underground. Then it will not be necessary to remove the floor covering. If the house is new, then you need to think about laying pipes in advance until the floors are laid.

Otherwise, they will have to be dismantled, in those places where the pipes will lie. Depending on the complexity and ramification of the system, the following elements may be needed.

In the construction of external sewage branches, asbestos-cement, steel, cast-iron and plastic pipes with appropriate parts and fittings are used. Compounds of elements are treated with sealants and greases.

If the house has two floors, you must immediately install the riser for an additional bath or sink on the second floor.

You can close it with a plug until you need it.

The assembly of the internal sewer lines is carried out after the risers are installed. All plumbing devices are connected to the discharge line. To install an automatic washing machine in the diagram in the figure, you need to add another tee

The sewer network should be designed in such a way as to avoid unnecessary turns, branches and connections.

The optimal route for the device of the outer branch in general should be as straight as possible.

If you still have to perform branching, fittings corresponding to the material of the pipes should be used - most often they are used for sewage PVC and HDPE pipes.

For tight connection of elements there are special sealing gum inserted into the inner part of the sewer pipe. Information on fittings for polypropylene pipes considered in our other article.

For the assembly and construction of sewer pipelines of any degree of complexity, an extensive range of shaped parts is produced. Polymer products are intended for the installation of lines from similar pipes

A suitable diameter of sewer pipes for laying to an autonomous septic tank is 110 mm. This is a full sewer that will last a long time.

It is better not to save on pipes and lay with the calculation of a possible increase in the load on the system, otherwise they may need to be replaced in the future. The approximate cost of materials can be found here.

The main expenditure item of a sewer pipeline is pipes, the cost of which is presented in the table. Corrugation, plugs and tees are much cheaper

After installing the internal system, the pipe for draining into a septic tank from tires must be brought to the house. It is not necessary to arrange the exit of the sewer from the house under the foundation.

It is better to punch a hole at the depth necessary for withdrawal with a crowbar, a perforator or use a hollow iron pipe with a sharp end.

Features of laying a sewer pipeline in a private house are considered in this article.

It is necessary to punch for the release of the entire thickness of the foundation horizontally, so that the connection of pipes in this place is carried out by what is called “shelf to shelf”. However, it is better to provide for it during the construction period, laying a sleeve before pouring

After that, a trench is developed from the outside of the house. It goes from the outer wall of the foundation to the location of the septic tank.

The depth of the trench is determined by local climatic conditions. Its bottom should be laid below the level of seasonal freezing of soils in the region by 20 - 30 cm.

The external pipeline is laid with a bias towards the natural movement of effluents - to the septic tank.

The average slope is 2 - 3 cm per linear meter of pipe.

For systems with forced waste transport, a 1 cm slope over the same length. Details of slope of the sewer pipeline considered in our other article.

After laying the external and internal sewer pipes, you need to proceed with the choice of design for the organization of a septic tank from worn tires. There are several ways to device it.

Popular septic tank options

Septic tanks collected from worn tires are of three types:

• With filter system.
• With sump and filtering (absorption) well.
• With filter system and drain pipe.

You need to choose a design based on the volume of wastewater. For a family of three, a septic tank of tires with a filter system is quite suitable. If the family is large, then such a septic tank will quickly become worthless due to congestion, so it is better to choose the option with a sump and a filter well.

No. 1 - design with filter system

This is the most budgetary way for those who have decided to make a septic tank out of tires with their own hands. For him, it is enough to dig a pit, prepare the bottom and lay the wheels.

The principle of installing a simple waste water treatment plant is clearly and clearly shown in the picture.

The capacity and associated operating capabilities of the septic tank will depend on the diameter of the wheels. Better to take from large equipment

The principle of operation is simple:

1. Drains fall into the tank.
2. The solid insoluble component of the effluent does not pass into the ground and settles on the surface of the drainage layer from crushed stone.
3. Filtered water goes into the ground through drainage.

The disadvantage of the construction is that this type is designed to collect and purify only gray drains: water contaminated during cooking, water from the shower and bathtub, washing machine and dishwasher.

The processing of fecal matter in a similar design is not performed.

However, if you arrange a sealed bottom instead of a drainage layer and ensure a tight connection in the walls, this option can serve as a drive for collecting all types of effluents that are to be pumped out regularly.

The advantage of this system is its simplicity. As a dusting, you can choose expanded clay, sand and just plain earth. The disadvantages include the rapid formation of a viscous sludge residue at the bottom of the tank, which will eventually hinder the outflow of liquid.

If this happens, you will have to pump out the septic tank and clean the bottom with the subsequent replacement of gravel. Such a septic tank should not be placed close to buildings or cellars.

No. 2 - construction with a sump and filter system

This option is more difficult than the previous one, but also more durable. The design consists of two tanks. One is for settling wastewater, and the other is for filtering it before it enters the ground.

This differs from the previous version by the presence of a sump with a sealed bottom. In it, the effluent received through the sewer pipe settles. The insoluble component settles at the bottom, and the liquid moves to the absorption well for further treatment by filtration through the drainage layer of crushed stone

Principle of operation:

• Sewage is discharged through a pipe into the first tank.
• Large fractions settle on the bottom of the sump.
• Light fractions, together with the liquid component, enter the filtering well through an adjacent pipe.
• Liquid effluents pass through a gravel and sand filtration system and then go into the ground. At the bottom of the absorption well, light fractions settle.

This design of a septic tank from old tires is the most environmentally friendly and cost-effective. Pumping out of it will need to be carried out no more than 4-5 times a year. Moreover, if the septic tank is constantly used, it is unnecessary to additionally insulate it.

No. 3 - a septic tank of tires with a drainage pipe

This is not the most successful design. The presence of a drainage pipe does not play a special role in the operation of the system.

Drill holes in the pipe. To do this, use a drill with a drill corresponding to the material of the pipe. Do not forget to cool the drill, otherwise it will heat up and become brittle

The principle of operation of this homemade septic system:

• Drains fall into the tank.
• Insoluble sewage settles on rubble.
• Filtered water goes into the ground through a drainage pipe and crushed stone.

The purpose of the drainage pipe is to remove water, bypassing the bottom clogged with sludge. But she also quickly clogs them up and does not last long.

Stages of a septic tank

In addition to sewer pipes and accessories, you need to stock up on tires. Tires from Kirovets will do. The installation of larger tires can not be done alone.

Step # 1 - preparing materials and tools

DIY tools for septic tanks:

1. Drill.
2. Bulgarian.
3. Pliers.
4. Shovel.
5. Shovel pick.
6. Stairs.
7. Scrap.
8. Ax.
9. Buckets.
10. Roulette.

For cutting polypropylene pipes use a pipe cutterbut you can use a knife. Materials needed for the work are available. They can be bought at any hardware store.

To seal the joints of the elements and enter the pipes, liquid bitumen is required - the most compatible tool with tire material

If the “native” soil selected during the excavation of the foundation pit and trenches does not contain sandy loam and loam layers, it can be used for backfilling.

In the presence of clay layers and lenses, replacement is necessary.

For backfilling a foundation pit with a septic tank and trenches with pipes installed, it is better to stock up with river or quarry sand

It is not necessary to pour expensive granite rubble, which is shown in the photo, into the sewer.

A budget dolomite or calcareous analogue is quite suitable.

Crushed stone with a fractional “caliber” of 5 - 20 mm is required for filling the drainage layer. Within the septic tank, the thickness of the layer must be at least a meter

Step # 2 - calculate the amount of materials

The required depth of the septic tank is 2, 5-3 m. As a result of connecting the tires, one large container should be obtained without a cover, with or without a bottom.

The depth of installation of the septic tank must be divided by the width of the tire. Seven tires from Kirovets and two tires from Kamaz will be enough.

The number of pipes must be determined based on the distance from the septic tank to the house. This distance must be divided by 3 meters (the length of the longest sewer pipes). The resulting number will be equal to their number.

It is better to take with a margin, since during the installation of the septic tank they can be damaged. One more pipe is needed to connect two septic tank containers.

Clamps taken at a rate of 5 on two wheels (with a margin).If knitting wire is used instead, 1-2 meters is enough. For waterproofing, you need a piece of rubber 1X1 in size (you can slightly larger).

One roll of roofing material, which is needed for waterproofing containers.

To install a filter pad, you need 2 tons of sand and gravel. You can also use ASG, but the quality of the filtration will be worse, since the sand will quickly clog silt. The remains of sand and gravel can be used as dusting containers.

Step # 3 - preparing the foundation pit for the installation of a septic tank

After all the materials are collected and the drainage system is removed from the house, you can begin to equip the septic tank.

It consists of two containers. One of them is a sump for large fractions of wastewater, and the second is a filtering well for water flow. Its design is detailed in the diagram below.

A sketch of a septic tank with a filter well from tires will help to calculate the material consumption, determine the depth of the bottom of the structure and the depth of the pipe

Mounting tires is easy. The most time-consuming process is digging a pit. It is difficult to dig a hole of the required size on your own. This can take about a week.

If the pit is developed manually, then when deepening more than one and a half meters, it will become difficult to extract soil from it.

You will need a device such as a bucket on a rope to lift the blade and a cart for the removal of excess land. It is necessary to take care in advance of the place where the excess soil will be dumped. The upper black soil layer can be scattered around the garden.

A dug pit must be cleaned of the roots of the plants. In the process of growth, the roots of trees such as poplar can move the septic tank segments or disrupt its tightness. To do this, use an ax.

After the roots are removed, you need to align the place where the bottom of the sump will be located. This is necessary for a snug fit of rubber to the lower tire. The smoother the place, the better the fit and tightness.

The place where the bottom of the filtering well will be located needs to be further deepened by the width of one tire from Kirovets and the width of the sand cushion.

The thickness of the sand filter pad layer is from 30 to 60 cm. It is not necessary to level it, since then a layer of gravel will follow.

If children live in the house, it is necessary to enclose the pit for the duration of the installation of the septic tank. This is necessary to prevent accidents, since the edges of the pit can crumble if you stand on them.

The child does not understand the degree of danger, so it is better to be safe.

Step # 4 - stack tires for the sump

Step-by-step installation instructions for sump tires:

1. Rubber is laid on a prepared base.
2. The first tire is placed on the rubber bottom.
3. The tire and rubber joints are coated with liquid bitumen.
4. The second bus fits on the first.
5. The joint between the first and second bus is coated with liquid bitumen.
6. The first and second tire are fastened together by clamps or knitting wire.
7. The third tire is mounted on the second and fastened in the same way, followed by sealing the joints with bitumen.
8. In the third tire, a square hole for a drain pipe from the house is cut using a grinder.
9. A tire from KamAZ is laid on the third tire.
10. The joints between the fourth and third bus are sealed with liquid bitumen.

A foundation pit with a settling tank does not need to be filled up until a supply sewer line is introduced into it and a pipe is removed from it to the filtering well.

The input and output of pipes from the septic tank-settler is made after the device of all objects of external sewage. Do not forget that the input must be higher than the outlet pipe

Step # 5 - stack the tires for the filter well

Step-by-step installation instructions for the well:

1. The first tire is laid on the sandy bottom.
2. Crushed stone or gravel is poured into the tire.
3. The second bus fits on the first.
4. The joint between the first and second bus is coated with liquid bitumen.
5. The first and second tire are fastened together by clamps or knitting wire.
6. The third tire is mounted on the second and fastened in the same way, followed by sealing the joints with bitumen.
7. The fourth bus is installed.
8. In the fourth tire, a square hole for a drain pipe is cut through a grinder.
9. The tire from KamAZ fits onto the fourth tire.
10. The joints between the fourth and fifth tires are sealed with liquid bitumen.

After completing the installation of the sump and filter well, you need to start laying the pipe between the tanks. The pipe should be 110 mm in diameter, since when it is used, a greasy coating appears on the walls.

Over time, the lumen of the pipe will become smaller. If you trim the edges of the tires on the inside, the volume of the absorption well will increase significantly.

Gravel filling in the absorption well is carried out so that its lower layers are folded by the smallest fraction available. With climb, the fractional composition should be increased.

With this method, finer cleaning will be performed at the exit from the gravel pack.

Step # 6 - connect the sump and filter well

To do this, grinder cut two holes. The pipe outlet from the sump to the well should be below the level of the drain pipe from the house.

The hole can be made in the lower part of the third tire or in the upper region of the second. The pipe can be installed horizontally or at a slope of 15-20 degrees.

Sewer pipes are laid with a slope, providing spontaneous movement of effluents and preventing their outflow in the opposite direction in case of flooding of the septic tank

Places where the pipe connects to the tires additionally seal. To do this, it is necessary to cut small patches from the roofing material, and glue it with liquid bitumen.

This is necessary so that the earth does not pour through the cracks from the pipe. When the sealing is completed, you can proceed to the final stage.

The external sewer line is necessarily equipped with a ventilation pipe, which is easier and more convenient to arrange in the cover of the filtering well.

However, the optimal way is to exit the house or the area between the receiving and absorption wells. Best of all, if ventilation is arranged at two points: at the exit of the building and above the filtering well.

The distance between the walls of the pit and the tanks must be filled with sand. Periodically you have to go down and tamp the ground. This can be done with a small wooden post or piece of carriage. It is better to take a pine tree, as it is lighter.

The soil in the pit will settle immediately after the first rain, after which you will have to additionally fill it with earth. After that, you can remove all excess land on the site. To do this, you need a car or buckets. Lids on a septic tank can be cut out with a grinder from a sheet of iron.

The service life of such a drain system is more than 15 years. Only the sump will need to be pumped out as it is filled with heavy fractions of sewage.

You may also find useful information about sewage pumps for forced pumping, reviewed here.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

A video with practical experience in the construction of a septic tank from tires:

Construction of a three-section septic tank:

Video about the best options for connecting sewer pipes:

We described a cheap and reliable way to create a septic tank with your own hands. It protects soil and groundwater from pollution.. In addition, nothing but cost is not inferior to the analogue of concrete rings.

Do you have a septic tank made from old tires on your site? Please tell us how difficult it was for you to engage in its construction and what nuances you had to face. Or did you notice a discrepancy in the instructions given in the article? Please write to us about this in the comments.