How to make a septic tank with your own hands from barrels using plastic containers as an example

Local sewerage with its own sewage treatment plant will allow not to break away from civilization in settlements that do not have basic infrastructure. If you make a septic tank with your own hands from barrels as an object of cleaning, the cost of improvement will be minimal. But for a successful result, technological subtleties are needed. Is it true?

To everyone who wishes to acquire an autonomous sewage system on their own site, we offer useful information that thoroughly illuminates all aspects of its construction. The practical application of the information provided by us is a guarantee of long service life and flawless operation of the system.

An interesting article presented to your attention introduces you to various constructive types of home-made septic tanks. It describes in detail the technology for constructing a sewage treatment plant from waste barrels. Construction methods are illustrated by simplified graphics, photos and video applications.

The benefits of a homemade septic tank

Despite the fact that manufacturers offer a fairly wide range treatment systems, the design and construction of home-made septic tanks (for example, from barrels) is quite relevant.

The option of a hand-held device is in demand for the following reasons:

• the ability to minimize costs by purchasing components, as they say, at random - where it’s cheaper, secondly, using existing tools;
• installation of equipment can be carried out according to the so-called modular scheme, having preliminarily considered options for supplementing and complicating the system.

Let's say you first equip a toilet. In the future, connect the bath, a sink in the kitchen, even a sink in the garage to the cleaning system. Of course, this will only be easily feasible if the “tie-in” points are ready in advance — pipe bends that have been temporarily reserved on the surface or adjacent to it.

The construction of a septic tank from barrels will allow, at minimal cost, to organize an autonomous sewage system with the disposal of neutralized and clarified effluents

No one better than the master who built the septic tank knows the weak points of the treatment system and its capabilities. Although it is not worthwhile to make shortcomings, only he will take them into account during operation.

It’s no secret that manufacturers and sellers of any equipment, as a rule, do not inform buyers about shortcomings, “sticking out” only advantages septic system. An independent builder will know what can fail him.

Knowing the approximate norms of water consumption by the family, given the frequency of residence and the features of the site around the house as a whole (type of soil and groundwater), you can avoid both unnecessary effort and money, and “accidents” caused by poor throughput of the cleaning system.

The septic tank from barrels works on the principle of multi-section sumps, which, as a result of overflowing and settling, ensure the separation of effluents into water and sludge. After leaving the septic tank, the water clarified and purified to 65% is discharged into the soil, and the sludge accumulates at the bottom of the sump until pumped out by suckers

Learn the subtleties of the construction of a septic tank that works without emitting odor and does not require pumping out popular article our site.

Varieties of designs and schemes

The self-made septic tank constructed from barrels represents several capacities (chambers) installed in the given order. They are sequentially connected to each other by nozzles so that the sections are filled in a strictly defined order. This is achieved by installing cameras at different levels in height.

The principle of operation of a multi-chamber septic tank is similar to the principle of operation cesspool with overflow. The entry and exit of pipes into the chambers is done in such a way that the water begins to flow into the next tank, before the water level rises to the inlet pipe.

Gradually accumulating in the chamber, the water settles. The heaviest particles of contaminants settle at the bottom of the tank, smaller and lighter particles continue along the system.

For the free flow of waste mass to the septic tank and from chamber to chamber, the sewer line is arranged with a slope. The slope must be observed at each site, including the segments between the sections of the septic tank

In order for the methane generated during the processing of effluents to be able to be freely removed from the system, it is necessary to arrange ventilation. It is installed vertically at the exit from the house or at the exit of their last section of a home-made septic tank.

In addition, on the drain of water from plumbing fixtures, sinks, a toilet bowl, a shower cubicle, etc., it is necessary to provide a siphon - at least made in the form of a "knee" - so that an unpleasant smell does not poison the existence.

The principle of operation of the septic tank is based on the gradual separation of solid insoluble components and the liquid component of the effluent. Sew more sections pass the sewer mass, the higher the final degree of purification.

The most common is a three-section scheme of a septic tank, used for the processing of gray and brown waste streams. However, if it is necessary to purify contaminated water coming from a bathhouse or kitchen, the use of one or two sections of barrels will be sufficient.

Treated and clarified sewage from a septic tank flows into the soil post-treatment system, for example, it is disposed of through a filtration field

From the last barrel, an exit to the filtration field is arranged, which completes the cleaning process. This post-treatment system is an underground structure assembled from perforated pipes - drains.

The drainage pipeline is laid in trenches specially selected for them, laid with geotexil, on top of which pipes are laid and a sand-gravel mixture is filled.

The function of ground treatment of gray effluents supplied by baths, washing machines, kitchen drains, etc., can be safely entrusted to an absorption well built in the extreme barrel of the sewer system. In this case, the bottom of the tank is cut out, and it is filled with gravel and sand so that the layer of this backfill is at least 1 meter.

If the amount of effluent does not exceed 5–8 m³ / day, then as a soil post-treatment system, you can use the third section without a bottom, filled with a layer of 1 m sand and gravel. Using this method, absorbing (filtering) wells are arranged

As you can see, the scheme is quite simple, but its implementation in practice will require a lot of physical effort. Particularly time-consuming work is associated with the development of a foundation pit for a septic tank section and trenches for a sewer pipeline.

The calculation of the volume of wastewater is based on the rate of discharge of wastewater per person in l / day. A single-chamber septic tank is constructed with a waste mass volume of up to 1 m³ / day, a two-chamber septic tank is built at 5 - 8 m³ / day

Construction of a septic tank made of plastic barrels

Homemade treatment plants can be divided into groups according to the material from which the chambers are made, these are septic tanks:

• from plastic barrels;
• from the served European cubs;
• from metal containers (welded cubes, cylindrical barrels);
• concrete rings;
• from car tires.

The metal tank has greater rigidity. In addition, it is easier to fix from floating. But the main disadvantage of iron barrels is their poor ability to resist corrosion.

A septic tank made of concrete rings requires the use of special equipment in the construction of sewer wells. It is difficult to provide a cleaning point made of tire covers with a proper degree of tightness if there is no experience with similar materials.

The use of plastic barrels in the septic tank device allows you to do without lifting equipment and without welding

A homemade septic tank made of plastic barrels has more advantages:

• light weight, which facilitates transportation, installation in the pit and assembly;
• resistance to corrosion. This point is important not only from the point of view of reducing the hassle associated with replacing tanks, but also as an additional guarantee of cleanliness on the site;
• optimal construction method, as installation of the system does not require electric welding;
• tightness of containers, due to which there is no need to carry out work on the waterproofing of the sewer structure;
• manufacturability of the source material. Polymer containers are much easier to handle with cutting tools.

If necessary, light cutting flaws can be easily fixed using cold welding.

Plastic barrels - the easiest to use, technologically advanced source material for the construction of a makeshift septic tank

Basic placement requirements

In the event that you have to obtain permission to install a septic tank in regulatory authorities (SES, etc.), then carefully study SNiP No. 2.04.03- 85. SNiP - "Building Norms and Rules" - a document similar to the standard (GOST), and it is the specified one that establishes the basic rules for the construction of external sewage networks and treatment facilities.

Sanitary regulations SanPiN - Sanitary Rules and Norms.

In any case, adhere to the following requirements for distances from the septic tank to the following objects:

• the foundation of the house is 4-5 meters;
• well, well - 30-50 m;
• lake, pond - 30 m;
• bushes, trees - 2-4 m;
• road - 5 m.

Before an autonomous septic tank or cesspool of plastic barrels its location must be discussed with the owners of neighboring sites. Although the standards provide for a distance from their fence to a septic tank of 2 m, the owners of a nearby estate may not be happy with the proximity of the sewer structure.

If the bottom of the structure is deepened below 5 m, it will be necessary to obtain building permits from the local administration.

The larger the volume of wastewater processed in the septic tank, the further it should be removed from the foundation

But even if permission is not required, consider the features of the site. It is pointless to arrange sewage with soil post-treatment systems in clay soils that do not have the necessary filtration properties.

The stagnation of flood waters during snowmelt and during periods of heavy rainfall will “tell” about the lack of water permeability. This means that clay soils prevail in the section and do not pass water through themselves and into themselves.

On clay soils, sandy loams, clays, loams, storage tanks are installed. Make them concrete rings, plastic containers or a group of barrels. Accumulators only accumulate waste mass for pumping out with sewage trucks, but do not process them.

A similar decision should be made if the groundwater level is close to the surface. Water-saturated soils will also impede the disposal of the purified and clarified liquid component of the effluent.

If the section of the site is composed of clay soils that are unable to absorb purified water, the idea of ​​constructing a septic tank will have to be abandoned

Instead of a storage tank, a biological treatment station can be installed. It cleans drains by 98%, which allows them to be dumped onto the terrain.

Features and design standards

Having solid experience in the construction of such systems, all the required calculations can be done "by eye". But drawing up a detailed plan and developing a project, at least in the form of a sketch, can be of great benefit.

First, by determining where to install the cameras and laying the trunk, you will accurately calculate how much and what materials you need to purchase. If time is running out, then before you start work, some of the necessary, it may well be possible to get it for free.

Moreover, it is legal - people, as a rule, easily part with things that they consider junk. It has already been tested more than once in practice that even a car can be assembled by spending funds comparable to the price of, say, a new bicycle.

Secondly, the careful implementation of the sketch contributes to the adoption of new decisions, as well as disciplines. In addition, a high-quality drawing on a scale can reveal the shortcomings of the original design and protect against unnecessary expenses. It may well turn out that the scheme can be simplified by discarding the excess.

Designing a septic tank will help to accurately calculate the consumption of materials, think through the joints and calculate the height of the barrels (+)

When drawing up a plan, focus on the following:

• even if you do not need official permission to install a septic tank, try not to violate the ecology of the site;
• the sections of the septic tank should be located so that between them and the foundation there is a minimum of 5 m - a distance that excludes the erosion of soils in case of emergency flooding of the septic tank and leaks;
• the route of sewer pipes should be designed so that it is possible, without turns, which contribute to clogging of the pipeline;
• the external line of the autonomous sewage system must be provided with an inspection well for inspection and cleaning.
• for every 25 m of the sewer line, an additional viewing well should be constructed.

If the site is not happy with the dimensions, and the choice of place is a settled matter, then, if necessary, strengthen the walls of the pit.

To the level of seasonal freezing of soils, the septic tank and sewer pipeline must be insulated so that ice plugs do not form in it

If it is planned to erect buildings for the future, the functioning of which will require the use of water (a bath, a sink, some kind of handicraft production), provide places for “tapping” water drains from them into the treatment system. Moreover, the discharge of water from the bath can be taken immediately to the last chamber of the septic tank, since there will be no large particles of dirt in the wastewater.

If you do not intend to use the services of a scavenger, do not make the first chamber too bulky - so that it can be easily cleaned manually. In addition, provide for the possibility of easy dismantling of the camera, or access to its contents for quick cleaning.

For maintenance, operation monitoring and periodic extraction of sludge, a septic tank must be equipped with a hatch. It must be at least 18 cm above the ground.

If, in accordance with the clay type of soil on the site, only the installation of the drive is possible, then design it in order to ensure the unhindered passage of sewage equipment.

The depth of the trench must be calculated so that the slope of the pipes is 2-3 cm per 1 meter so that the drains spontaneously move to the place of processing and disposal.

Preparation of building materials for work

The main materials necessary for making a septic tank from barrels with your own hands should include:

• pipes for the trunk with a diameter of 110 mm;
• fitting, corners, etc., in an amount appropriate to your project.
• barrels themselves, designed for septic tank cameras. Select their sizes with the calculation of the approximate water flow in the house, based on direct observations.

It is advisable to use barrels with thick enough walls so that the joint of the pipes with them is as rigid as possible - otherwise the seam may lose tightness from mechanical stress.

To connect polymer parts, it is more convenient to use adhesives that must be compatible with the materials of barrels and pipes

Work in advance on the issue of freezing chambers at low temperatures. You can use the old rural way - put wooden sticks in containers.

At least, the ice expanding during freezing will compress the tree, which has “taken” part of the impact. Plastic bottles filled with sand will also help.

But in any case, the thermal insulation of the barrels will not be unnecessary - take care of the acquisition of available materials in the required quantity.

Support materials will also be required. Need to buy a sealant for sealing joints. For this purpose, do not use silicone, it will not last long, and you won’t be able to cover it with any protective layer - no coating can hold on silicone.

The best option is to use bodywork automotive sealant - it has good adhesion (ability to stick), mechanical strength, and it can be coated on top with paint, mastic, etc. A polyurethane sealant has the best characteristics, but it is quite expensive;

It is necessary to purchase cement, sand, reinforcement - for pouring the bases under the barrels. The sand should not have any special requirements in terms of quality. Let it be with pebbles, it’s not scary, the main thing is not to include lumps of loam and organic pollution.

As steel fittings, any steel bars are suitable. There is no need to cook the reinforcing mesh - just fasten the rods with wire.

If during the development of the pit the soil was extracted with biological inclusions, lenses and layers of clay soil, then to fill the pit with a septic tank installed, quarry or river sand will be required

It will require crushed stone, gravel, gravel slag or similar materials to fill the bottom of the pit (pit) before pouring cement;

A plastic barrel is lightweight, and therefore, when the container is not full, it can be “pushed” to the surface by groundwater. To avoid this, prepare metal hooks, threaded rods - anything you can "anchor"Barrel.

It is appropriate to use the sold threaded rods - it is convenient to make hooks from them, on the straight ends of which you can fix the iron plates with two nuts that need to be “drowned” in cement.

The device of the pit with a concrete slab

How do you decide to make the main foundation pit - manually or with the help of an excavator - decide for yourself. Calculate its area so that after installing the barrel in place, it is convenient to ram the earth, which is poured into the gap between it and the wall of the pit. You can also provide for thermal insulation of the tank - slaggy, polystyrene, - in general, the fact that it will be more affordable.

Before pouring a concrete slab at the bottom of the pit, you need to check whether its depth is sufficient. To do this, you can install one of the barrels in the pit and see if there is enough depth for the concrete base. If everything is in order, you can begin to fill the bottom of the pit with cement. It’s completely optional to do so formwork, but it is advisable to fall asleep before this with sand and tamp the bottom.

If there are doubts about the strength of the walls of the pit, then before pouring them they must be strengthened with a board. Then it is enough to fill the bottom with a thin layer of liquid cement. After it dries, it is possible to lay the reinforcement and make the fill “clean” - with the horizon leveling. Do not forget about the mortgage embedded parts for anchoring barrels!

Mix cement with sand - 3 parts of sand per 1 part of cement. It is very convenient to use an electric concrete mixer, but acquiring it only for this work (if there are no plans for the construction of anything else) does not seem advisable. It is enough to choose a suitable trough, convenient for working with a shovel.

Mix sand with cement first without water - on the contrary, avoiding its premature ingress, and then gradually adding liquid, bring the solution to the required consistency. To prepare small portions of cement, you can work on a sheet of iron or plywood - if there is no trough. Before filling the foundation directly, moisten the backfill with water for sealing.

In order to anchor a light plastic septic tank into the concrete slab to be poured, it is necessary to lay metal staples

To level the fill, use a tool similar to a flat mop. While pressing the sole to the surface, smooth the solution with light translational movements. So, by the way, you will achieve better filling with the solution of the future site.

To prevent cracking of the mortar during drying, especially in hot weather, cover the flooded area with a dense cloth after the cement has set and pour over with water. For this purpose, tarpaulin or a similar synthetic fabric is better - here it is important not to wet the surface of the site, but to slow down the evaporation process.

Proceed with the installation of pipes when the barrels are installed, but not completely fixed. Only when the entire structure is assembled can its elements be fixed. It is advisable to fill the barrels with water - for stability.

All these points are important to consider due to the fact that the final stage of the assembly will be the treatment of pipe joints and barrels with sealant - while it dries, it is necessary to ensure the structure is still.

Before applying sealant, treat large areas of contact with plastic. sandpaper (No.№ 80 -100) - for the best coupling and durability of a seam. By the way, triangular kerchiefs can be installed on the same sealant for rigidity, 3-4 pieces per joint, between the barrel wall and the pipe. Tie kerchiefs with wire, masking tape, etc. while drying the sealant. - so that they do not "slip".

A schematic diagram of the preparation of the pit and anchoring of a factory-made septic tank can be used in the construction of a sewer facility with your own hands (+)

Having tested the system for water permeability, proceed to the final filling of trenches and pits. Do the tamping of the soil gradually, filling the ground in layers. For rigidity, you can throw stones, bricks, etc. into the gap.

In those places where it is possible that equipment will run into the filled pipes and pits, before filling the surface soil layer, make a protective flooring at least from the boards.

Assembly and connection of the structure

So, all the materials are ready. The next step is cutting holes in the pipe barrels. It does not make sense to describe this procedure. The only thing that can be advised - do not immediately make holes in the size - let the pipes be inserted with force, if necessary, cut the excess.

Next, you should take care of fixing the pipes in advance, otherwise when filling and tamping trenches and holes, the integrity of the seams can be violated. Pipes can be fixed using all the tools at hand — wire, board trim, bricks — anything.

Before digging trenches and pits, it would be worthwhile to assemble the entire structure, without fixing details, arrange everything on the ground. Pipes can simply be laid on the ground next to the barrels. This will help to more accurately make markings on the ground. Having marked the contours of the highway and foundation pits with lugs and twine, you can start digging.

Visual walkthrough

The process of constructing a septic tank with an overflow from the used barrels will provide a visual step-by-step instruction:

In the first part of the installation work, the preparation of the components of the septic system and the installation of the receiving tank in the pit were carried out.

Next, we carry out the device of the camera, which performs the functions of an absorbing well:

The steps for installing the reception and absorption chambers are completed. Now we proceed to the construction of the soil post-treatment system, for which we have already installed a beacon in the form of the first peg and made a slope-determining device.

Installation of a septic system with a filtration field is completed, it remains to fill the pit with soil and put the structure into operation:

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Video # 1. The use of plastic barrels in the manufacture of a septic tank:

Video # 2. The final stages of the device:

Video # 3. The general principle of the organization of autonomous sewage:

When the homemade septic tank made of plastic barrels is ready for use, work out the rules for its use for family members. Be sure to insist that non-degradable objects such as rags, cigarette butts, and small items made of synthetic materials are not thrown into the sinks.

In the event that you will independently clean the chambers, you can prepare a waste pit in advance. Practice shows that the organic sludge extracted from the septic tank, mixed with earth and mowed grass, after three years turns into a good fertilizer for the soil.

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