How to transfer the outlet: instructions for moving the outlet to another location

Comfortable operation of electrical appliances largely depends on how conveniently the electrical outlet is located. It often happens that when the interior is changed and when new equipment appears, the previous layout of the connection points is no longer satisfied.

You can solve the problem on your own. Let's take a closer look at how to transfer the outlet to another location and what to consider when connecting it. To help the home craftsman, the material contains themed photographs and videos.

Socket Transfer Safety

Work on the transfer of outlets is not particularly difficult either organizationally or technically.

But dealing with elements electrical wiring It is important to ensure the highest level of security.

When choosing a new model of the socket to be transferred, the sockets are guided by the purpose for which the product is intended, as well as which type of plug will be used

When connecting independently, it is important to observe the four main rules:

1. It is allowed to connect the apartment electrical outlet using a VVGng power cable with a cross section of at least 1.5 mm².
2. According to the NBP and GOST, cable laying is allowed only in the vertical and horizontal directions. Horizontally laid routes are positioned, having withstood 200 mm from the ceiling level and 100 mm from beams and cornices, and vertical ones at a distance of 100 mm from door and window openings, as well as room corners.
3. Devices have above ground level within 50-80 cm. It is not allowed to place them closer than half a meter from radiators, steel pipelines and gas stoves.
4. All connections and branches of the electrical cable must be made through designed for this purpose. boxes, or in the cases of electrical devices, which include sockets.

Before moving the outlet to another place, you need to decide where the junction box is equipped, from which the "old point" is powered. Of key importance is also what metal the veins of the old electrical wiring are made of.

Observance of this condition will make it possible to secure both during the installation of the “point”, and in the future, if necessary, drive the same nail so as not to accidentally get into the wiring

To simplify installation before starting work, experienced craftsmen recommend preliminary scheme. This will allow you to determine the most rational option for placing the connection point. Based on the scheme, it will be easy to determine the area within which hidden wiring is not laid.

Knowing the layout and the main operational parameters of the in-house electrical wiring, installation work can be performed with minimal financial and labor costs.

Ways to migrate a connection point

There are two simple methods that allow the transfer of sockets without destroying the wall decoration:

• By creating a loop - involves the creation of a jumper from the old "point" to the new connection point.
• By lengthening the wire - involves the extension of the electric line in the cavity of a new gate.

If the new selected location is much further than the previous one, you can make a full replacement of the entire line by laying a separate wire from the junction box located at a slight distance. But, unlike the two methods described above, laying a new line requires large-scale repairs.

An important point: it is necessary to extend the conductor with an electric cable, the cores of which have the same cross section and are made of the same material

Choosing loop method When connecting a new outlet, keep in mind that such a connection is very unreliable for installing three or more power points. If one section or socket is damaged, the entire serial chain of devices will be inoperative. And, according to the rules of the PUE, it is not allowed to be used to power powerful electrical appliances: microwaves, electric stoves, refrigerators, washing machines, etc.

Another negative side is that when connecting two outlets with a single loop, the current load sequentially passes from one device to another. And therefore, when several devices are connected to the sockets connected via jumpers at the same time, the voltage for their operation may not be enough.

Wire Extension Options

When lengthening a new wire, the connection of its ends can be performed using one of several acceptable methods. The choice of installation method depends on the material from which the cores are made, their cross-section and the number of conductors.

Option # 1 - Using Terminals

Two of the simplest connection methods to use are spring terminals and terminal blocks. Spring terminals are equipped with a lever mechanism.

To fasten the ends of the cores with wagons, it is necessary to strip the insulation from each of them, and then insert the bare “tails” into the corresponding hole

Spring terminals can be used for both copper and aluminum conductors. On sale there are disposable pads that cannot be repaired, and reusable spring wagons, with which you can repeatedly disconnect the contact.

Terminal blocks should be selected with an inlet, the diameter of which corresponds to a given cross section of the cores.

For switching wires using a terminal block, on each side of the structure, they are inserted along the free end of the conductive core and tightened with screws

Terminal blocks should not be used to connect an aluminum cable. Aluminum is a brittle metal that can be damaged when tightened.

Option # 2 - fixation with plastic caps

This method involves the installation on the ends of the connecting wires insulating clamps (PPE). Plastic caps are made of non-combustible material, which eliminates the likelihood of spontaneous combustion of the wiring at the core twist.

The use of caps of different shades is convenient for creating color markings when switching cores of the "phase", "zero" and "ground".

The connecting insulating clamps are made in the form of plastic caps, equipped with a special spring inside, which holds the ends of the wires

Option # 3 - by twisting and soldering

The highest quality of all methods of connecting the cores is welding. But for its implementation, you need to be able to work with a soldering iron.

To do this, strip the ends of the cable to be connected, twist them together and immerse them in molten solder. The twisted ends are lowered into a solder bath, and after cooling, they are wrapped with insulating tape.

Some "craftsmen" to speed up the process of cooling the solder, immerse it in cold water. This should not be done for the reason that with the resulting temperature difference, microcracks occur on the metal surface, which impair the quality of the bond.

Switching of electric wires in the distribution box is most often carried out by soldering and installing mounting terminal blocks

Loop technology

The loopback method is the safest of all options. It involves not just moving the old outlet up or down, but creating a new “point” in the immediate vicinity of the old one.

The main advantage of the loop method is the ability to connect a new outlet, placing it on the wall section necessary for work, while maintaining the old

The only drawback of such a connection is that the cable from the socket to the socket is laid horizontally. Knowing that traditionally branching to the same switches and sockets is laid along a vertical route, because of its forgetfulness, you can inadvertently damage the wire.

In addition, if one of the wires is damaged in the switching place, then all the elements that follow it will stop working. And therefore, the fewer connection points the system will include, the more reliable it will be.

Selection of required materials

When using this method, material costs are minimized.

In addition to acquiring the newest outlet for work, it is necessary to prepare:

• wire of appropriate section;
• plastic socket;
• hammer drill with a crown D70 mm;
• indicator screwdriver;
• pliers;
• hammer;
• flat screwdriver;
• braiding tool.

The wire itself is not necessary stow, and can be laid in an open way using a cable channel.

To carry out the transfer of the connection point to a new place and to avoid the process of wall breaking, it is recommended to use the laid-on model of the cable channel

The choice of the model of the sapling depends on the base material into which it is supposed to be embedded. For concrete and brick walls, ordinary plastic “glasses” are chosen, and for drywall substrates - models equipped with spreader feet.

Niche production and installation of a socket

Before moving the hidden socket to another place, you need to prepare a place for installing a socket and make a strob for laying a section of the electrical network. Having outlined the location of the future connection point, a hole is drilled using a crown.

For lack of such, you can use a hammer drill equipped with a hammer drill, or grinder. In this case, first holes are drilled along the marking contour, and then individual fragments of wall material are chipped with a chisel.

The depth of the niche is made so that the plastic case of the "glass" is completely recessed into it, while there remains a margin of 3-4 mm

A “glass” is immersed in the prepared niche. An electric cable coming from the junction box is led through its rear wall.

In the concrete wall, the undergrowth is fixed with a gypsum mortar. After the mixture has hardened, the product is cleaned of gypsum residues, and its internal walls are wiped with cloths. To fix the undersocket into a plasterboard or wooden base, the “glass” is immersed in a niche and fixed with the help of side spacers

Connect a new point

Having measured the cable of the required length to power the new point, one end of it is brought to the terminal blocks of the old outlet, and the second to the contact part of the new "point". Zero, phase and ground wires are connected in parallel directly in the contacts of the outlet.

To prevent a short circuit between the conductors, each core is insulated in a plastic sheath. When connecting the cable, it must be removed. To facilitate the task will help the use of a cross knife, which is easy removes insulation without damage to the core.

The work of cleaning the braid should be done as carefully as possible, because if the core turns out to be damaged or defective, it will certainly “show” itself very soon.

Zero and phase conductors are allowed to be connected directly to the socket contacts, and the protective PE conductor only through a branch using the terminal block

When dealing with a PE conductor, keep in mind that according to the EMP, it is important to maintain its continuity. Indeed, in the event of a broken grounding conductor on one of the outlets, all other devices will be ungrounded.

Having completed the connection of the zero, phase and grounding conductors, it remains only to fix the working part of the product in the mounting box and install the decorative cover.

Socket transfer by extending the wire

In an effort to simplify the work of transferring the outlet, a method is often used in which the wire is extended to the required length, and the “glass” of the old outlet is used as an auxiliary junction box.

When transferring a “point” by lengthening the conductor, the mounting “cup” of the old outlet acts as a junction box for connecting wires

The houses of the old building used aluminum wiring. But modern requirements dictate cable laying with a cross section of 1.5 mm or more² with copper conductors including ground.

Extension of the electric line in a new gate cannot be carried out without partial destruction of the wall. But even under this condition, this option of transferring the outlet is more preferable than the loop method.

Complete wiring replacement is a rather expensive procedure, the implementation of which is better to plan for overhaul

The sequence of actions when extending the wire:

1. Disconnect the outlet group from the network, cutting down the circuit breaker on the apartment panel.
2. Using an indicator screwdriver, check for current in the terminals.
3. The decorative cover is removed from the old outlet, the body is pulled out of the strobes.
4. Using a simple pencil, they outline the line for laying the strobe.
5. On the intended line with a puncher or grinder, make a strob.
6. By means of a crown, a hole is hollowed out for the installation of a socket.
7. By connecting wires, lengthen the line.
8. In place of the old mounting block, a junction box is installed, in the cavity of which the places of fastened cores are laid.
9. In the hole made, a rosette is installed.
10. The free ends of the elongated wire are connected to the terminals of the socket block.
11. The connected outlet block is buried in a “glass”.
12. A decorative panel is mounted on the installed outlet.

When using the old socket as a junction box for building wires, contact of the joint with putty should be avoided.

Some craftsmen for this purpose cut the size of plasterboard to fit the size of the “glass”. First, it is attached to the front face of the undergrowth using liquid nails, and then a liquid layer of putty mortar is applied from above.

Switching wires made by twisting the ends must be insulated using a heat shrink tube or by wrapping in 2-3 layers of electrical tape

The main mistake made by beginning masters is when the “grown-up” conductor is laid back into the old shtroba, and then it is covered with gypsum mortar or alabaster. But, by shutting down access to connections, they do not take into account that in the event of a breakdown and incapacitation of a network section, it will not be possible to quickly fix the situation.

If a situation arose when the connection point needs to be moved closer to the distribution box, the operation is even easier. After all, the wire will only have to be shortened. To do this, under the installation of the mounting block, make a hole in the wall. Using a knife, shorten the previously laid line. Installation of the product is carried out in accordance with the above recommendations.

Conclusion of a new branch

This method involves spending more time and effort, but allows you to get the most secure transfer of the electrical outlet.

A method involving the conclusion of a new line is often used in panel houses, where the wires are literally walled into a concrete wall, and therefore it is not possible to remove them. In this situation, they are simply de-energized and left in place, and to supply a new outlet, lay a separate strobe.

With the new branch, you can transfer the connection point not only to the opposite wall, but even to the next room

Wall chipping and “glass” mounting

To withdraw a new line, the first thing they do is turn off the electricity in the room where the work will be carried out. On the wall with the help of a ruler and a pencil, they outline the route along which a new strobe will be laid.

On the intended route, using a puncher or grinder, they cut out a strob in the wall. The depth of the furrow is such that the wire laid in its cavity after installation is not protruded above the surface.

For the installation of a new connection point in the intended place, a “socket” with a depth of 50 mm is hollowed out using a hammer drill equipped with a crown. Niche walls are carefully cleaned from building chips and dust.

To fix the plastic “glass”, the inner walls of the niche done are covered with a layer of gypsum mortar, the outer faces of the undergrowth are treated with the same composition

The installed "glass" should not protrude above the surface. If the depth of the niche is not enough, you can carefully cut the back wall of the undergrowth.

Cable management and terminal connection

A cable is laid in the created recess, fixing it every 5-7 cm with plastic clamps or alabaster.

Opening the junction box, from which the “old point” was powered, find the connection point of the output cable with the wire going to the former outlet, and disconnect the wires.After that, the old line is dismantled along with the outlet. If the old shtrob was able to be opened, then after removing the wire it is sealed with gypsum or alabaster solution.

To power a new line, the end of the output cable is connected to the new wire using spring terminals or insulating clamps.

The connected unit is buried in the mounting box and fixed with bolts. When installing the outlet, it is important to prevent the slightest backlash. Otherwise, over time, it will fall out of the “socket” with the plug.

Since it is difficult to ensure a tight fit of the cores inside the box, it is advisable to connect the wires not by twisting, but by installing terminal blocks, spring terminals or plastic caps.

When laying a new conductor, you need to ensure that at both ends there is a small margin. It will be required in order to create a high-quality electrical connection.

The free stripped ends of the cores are connected to the outlet block of the new “point” through screw or spring terminals. When connecting via terminals, they are guided by the rule that the phase wire is installed on the left terminal, the zero wire on the right. The grounding conductor is connected to a terminal equipped with a "antennae", which is located on the device.

The connected working unit is installed in the socket and fixed with spacers and clamping screws. Mount the decorative panel on top.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The video will talk about how to transfer the outlet without dust:

What to consider when transferring a connection point:

There is nothing complicated in moving the outlet to a new place. The main thing is to adhere to the recommendations of experienced electricians listed in the article and observe safety precautions.

If you have any questions while reading the information or there are recommendations that will help the novice master to deal with the transfer of the outlet, please write them in the box below.