Restoring a cast-iron bath at home: step-by-step instruction

It is nice when an inexpensive but neat repair is made at home, and especially when everything is done with your own hands. Anyone who gets down to business, first assesses their capabilities, selects material, time and finances. But, it’s one thing to change the tile in the bathroom, and another thing is the bath, which has turned yellow from time to time.

However, you can not rush to change it, since you can restore the enamel coating. And how to make an inexpensive and high-quality restoration of a cast-iron bath at home can be found in this article.

Types of damage to the cast-iron bath

Despite the large selection of bathtubs of various shapes, sizes and materials, cast iron all are also in demand in the market. After all, such a cast base is almost eternal and can last several generations.

What does that require? Just a periodic restoration of the enamel coating of a cast-iron bathtub is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. For proper restoration work, you need to learn about the types of damage a little more.

View # 1 - yellowness and plaque

Roughly speaking, these are the remains of metal oxides that are contained in water. Over the years, more and more oxides are deposited; they impregnate the top coat of paint. And the moment comes when the yellowness is no longer washed, the upper layer becomes yellow.

Yellowness on the surface of the enamel occurs with prolonged contact with water. The most common causes for this type of damage are a leaking tap, drops of water from a shower head, improper installation of the drain

View # 2 - mechanical damage

Scratches or other damage to the factory enamel layer. An enamel coating is thermoset components baked at high temperature in several layers, which, when dried, become very hard but brittle.

Any sharp blow to the surface with a solid object often leads to cracks and even chips of part of the coating.

Mechanical damage occurs through rough handling. This is a sharp contact with metal objects, for example, the rim of a metal basin or bucket

View # 3 - gloss damage

Gloss is a very important detail for the aesthetic appearance and technical condition of the coating. A shiny surface is an indication of quality coverage. Gloss protects the enamel layer from moisture and various contaminants.

It does not allow chemical elements to settle on the surface from detergents, it allows the paint to remain clean for a long time. Any damage to the coating, even very slight, will shorten the life of the entire paint coat.

Very often, wanting to quickly wash away the dirt, the owners use detergents based on thin abrasive powders that very quickly turn gloss into a matte surface.

There is an article on our site where we told how to wash a cast-iron bowl without damaging the coating. More details - go to the link.

Damage to gloss occurs when using products containing corundum or glass abrasives. The use of such pastes over time damages the gloss, which leads to the retention of moisture on the surface and the ingress of various contaminants into micropores

Coverage Recovery Options

To restore the inner surface of the bathtubs, three types of restoration are common:

• applying enamel with a brush or spray gun;
• processing the bowl with a polymer compound - acrylic;
• insert installation.

Paint - the service life of the enamel coating largely depends on the experience of the master and the thoroughness of the preparation of the base of the bath / bowl. As a rule, even with a careful attitude to the restored coating, its service life does not exceed 1-1.5 years.

Liquid acrylic used to restore custom shape bathtubs. The technology allows you to update the bowl with your own hands, without involving a team of masters. True, you need to buy high-quality polymer from a trusted manufacturer.

Insert Installation - The option is quite problematic, since they are cast in a certain shape and it can be very difficult to choose the right size for your bath. And quite often it’s impossible - if you have a non-standard shaped bowl installed.

The shape and size of the bath will determine the choice of method for its restoration. For example, in a situation with products of non-standard shapes, it is better to dwell on acrylic coating

We will not give advice on which type of recovery is better - you will deal with it yourself, evaluating the state of your bath and your own strengths.

Step-by-step instruction on enamel restoration

Enamel, designed to restore the surface of a cast-iron bath, is a material that contains a base and a hardener.

Simply put, enamel is not exactly paint in the usual sense, but polymer composites that meet numerous requirements. Therefore, it is necessary to treat it as a complex chemical composition, which is made and mixed according to a special technology.

The main color is white, and various fillers and dyes are used to prepare color shades.

It’s worth mentioning right away that enameling does not pretend to be factory-made in quality, so the attitude towards it should be like a current repair. This is just a thin film coating that hardens in air without special ovens.

Enamel bath technology is divided into four stages:

1. Putty, or, as it can be called, the alignment of all irregularities, if any.
2. Foundation preparation for coating, which includes cleaning and removing the surface layer of existing enamel.
3. Enamel preparation and application to the surface.
4. Proper drying or drying.

All stages of the work are very important, nothing can be missed here. Even a small inaccuracy can lead to a decrease in the life of the coating, but we will take it in order. First of all, it is necessary to remove chips or scratches.

Step # 1 - surface preparation

In order to qualitatively prepare the inner surface, it is best to remove a completely damaged paint layer. To do this, the best option is if the layer is protected before the primer.

Stripping can be done manually or using electrical devices:Angle grinder (angle grinder), drills, grinders.

Surface treatment is carried out manually by an abrasive method, for this two types of working material are used: sandpaper and a metal mesh, which is used to smooth the plaster during construction and repair.

The abrasive cloth has a paper or fabric base. Fabrics are moisture resistant and conventional. The grain size is measured in microns., Therefore, the larger the number, the finer the grain. Abrasive cloth can be used for manual work in holders or with a power tool

When using sandpaper, you need to choose the basis to which it will be attached. To do this, there are special graters with screw or spring clips at the edges. Also, the base can be made independently from a bar of wood.

Sandpaper there are several types: on paper and fabric basis. Fabrics are more durable and can be washed, on a paper basis - no. Fabrics impregnated with a special composition are more resistant to abrasion. For work, grain size is suitable P120-P180.

Metal grid more practical, because it does not wear out and does not lose grain, and if it clogs with dust, you can rinse and continue working. The grid is attached to the holders.

The standard holder for abrasive mesh or sandpaper should have a flat and hard surface. Clips for the blade are screw or spring.

When buying, be sure to pay attention to the handle, which should be cast with a base. If the handle is attached to glue, then there is a chance that it will break at the very height of work. Professional nets can be made of tungsten filaments, but they are much more expensive.

The mesh markings are the same as sandpaper. Widespread brands: R-120, R-150, R-180, R-240. To remove the surface layer of paint from the bath, P120 - P180 is better.

Surface preparation is carried out until all defects are completely removed, or to the soil layer.

Step # 2 - preparing and applying the composite

If there are bumps, chips, deep scratches on the surface, then it is better to use special putties to level the surface.

To putty cracks, chips, deep scratches, putty is selected, which contains fiberglass in its structure. Such composites are best suited for sealing chips and bumps.

In order to prepare a place for sealing a cleavage it is necessary:

• thoroughly degrease the defect with whiteness, methylated spirits or acetone;
• rinse the place with running water and blow dry;
• sand thoroughly thoroughly;
• rinse again with clean water and blow dry;
• make a composite.

According to practicing masters, a putty containing fiberglass is better suited - such a composition is the most durable.

So, from suitable putties, polyester firms can be recommendedNovol orBody. After hardening, these materials have high ductility, which is important in conditions of constantly changing temperature during operation of the bathroom.

Finishing putty can not be used to seal the bath chips. Since it has a large linear thermal expansion.

First you need to determine the amount of necessary material. Putties need a little, so it is best to purchase a small jar.High-quality putties are two-component, one of which is a hardener.

The ratio of the mixed components is determined according to the instructions for use, but if it is not, then general standard 1:10. After combining the 2 components, it is necessary to mix them thoroughly and quickly to a homogeneous mass, the curing start time is 2 minutes.

Once the components are ready, you can begin the termination. It is best to cover up irregularities with a soft nylon spatula. This will clearly repeat the shape of the bends of the bath body. And then throw away such a spatula then do not mind, saving valuable time for work

After the composite is ready, all defects are repaired with a plastic spatula. After finishing the bumping, it is necessary to clean the entire working tool, because after 10-15 minutes the putty will turn into a “stone”.

Step # 3 - painting a cast iron bowl

The painting of the accessible part of the surface is done manually with the help of a velor roller, inaccessible places - with a brush fleut.

To apply paint with a roller, the prepared paint is poured into a special cuvette. After immersion of the roller in the paint, it is necessary to roll one or two turns along the ribbed edge of the cuvette.

Then, with intense movements, paint from the bottom of the bathtub to the edge of the top, while the movements should be directed from the bottom up. Inaccessible places for the rollerrepainted flute brush.

Experienced craftsmen say that once for an enamel coating will not be enough, at least three layers must be applied

Step # 4 - drying after painting

Drying after painting takes place only in natural conditions: drying of one coat of paint should continue for at least 3 days. Each repeated layer adds one more day. Thus, drying with a three-layer coating will be at least 6 days.

It is not recommended to speed up this process with artificial ventilation, as uneven drying is possible, which will entail the internal tension of the film, and as a result, its subsequent delamination.

It’s not worth rushing to dry the enamel or acrylic coating of the bathtub, because this can lead to a lot of troubles, starting from reducing the service life of the coating and ending with its peeling

Nuances and tips for independent work

Deciding on an independent coverage restoration, it is important to adhere to a number of rules and perform all actions sequentially. Only in this case can a positive result be guaranteed.

Firstly, before starting work it is recommended to wipe all the walls, the ceiling, in general, do a wet cleaning in the room where the bath is located, since any motefresh Enamel will noticeably worsen her condition.

If the shower is not dismantled, it must be removed to eliminate even the theoretical possibility of drops of water falling during the drying of the paint.

Secondly, degrease the prepared surface. The best solution for degreasing is denatured alcohol, solvent 646, in extreme cases, acetone.

The degreasing process involves wiping the surface with a lint-free cloth. This procedure must be repeated several times.

Solvents are well suited for processing, but do not remove residual corundum particles or debris, therefore, after cleaning, it is best to wash and vacuum the surface.

Thirdly, paint should be properly prepared. Mix it according to the attached instructions. It is worth remembering that the time for painting after mixing the components is 15-20 minutes.

The viscosity of the paint should not be too thick, otherwise it will be very difficult to apply it, but not liquid, so that leaks do not form.

Almost all paints are diluted with 646 solvent or acetone. The composition based on acrylic with domestic solvents is incompatible.

Fourth, you need to take time to prepare the fleet of the brush.Which consists in combing out a small comb of loose hairs so that they do not fall out during the coloring process.

Then you need to draw it several times on large emery paper to give the villi a peaked look.

FifthlyYou can use a power tool to speed up the surface preparation process. If you don’t find what you need, you can borrow it from a good-natured neighbor or friend.

The home master, who is independently engaged in repair, in the arsenal must have electrical appliances: a drill,screwdriver or angle grinder (Angle grinder) If you use special nozzles, then they are suitable for primary surface treatment before painting.

A number of surface grinding machines are sandpaper moving like a conveyor belt. The width of the tape can be very different. And the cars themselves - of different power and speed of the tape

You can also use surface preparationscrewdriverholding the substrate under the grinding material in the chuck instead of the drill. Or use special nozzles onangle grinder typewriter.

Using electrical appliances for painting the surface, it is worth paying attention to some of their features:

• Not all power tools have dust protection in the ventilation holes; to prevent paint particles from getting inside the device, it is possible to cover the ventilation holes with several layers of gauze.
• Electrical appliances with collector motors during operation create a spark betweenelectric brush and collector plates. With their continuous use, paint accumulates inside, which threatens to ignite.

Using a power tool in your work, it is better to give preference to devices with rechargeable batteries - they are more mobile and safer.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

So the puttying of the bathroom chips is carried out:

The most common errors when restoring coverage:

Detailed instructions for the restoration of the coating of the bath:

As you can see, produce enamel restoration at home it is not so difficult, the main thing is to clearly understand the sequence of operations and do everything without errors. But if you doubt your own strengths - entrust this work to professionals.

Perhaps you had to restore the bath yourself? Please tell visitors of our site what method they used and why they chose it. Leave your comments in the box below. There you can ask questions of interest on the topic of the article.