Liner or bathtub - which is better? Comparison of technological and technical characteristics

The issue of installing a new bath would not be difficult if it were not for a lot of problems. After all, this is not only spending on a new product and its delivery, but also dismantling the old sanitary ware and installing a new one.

Therefore, for some users, the restoration of an old bath is the most affordable solution. It remains only to decide whether an insert or a bulk bath will be used for updating. Let's get it together.

All about the “bulk bath” restoration method

A bulk acrylic bathtub is considered the most convenient way to quickly and without damage to update an old bathtub.

But even this modern technology has its drawbacks. What are the pros and cons of the method, we will consider further.

You can restore the bath with bulk acrylic yourself - this is one of the easiest ways. In this case, it is possible to choose any color of coating

Arguments for Acrylic

Acrylic is a relatively new material that first began to be used in the 90s of the last century thanks to Finnish manufacturers. Its use makes it possible to create a perfectly smooth surface, very smooth, without pores and streaks.

The positive properties that distinguish acrylic from other materials for restoration (for example, from epoxy enamel) are as follows:

• it is durable, keeps operational characteristics till 15 years;
• subject to well-executed work, the paint covers the surface well, filling all the cracks and roughness, creating an absolutely even layer;
• even a layman can carry out applying liquid acrylic, however, in order to avoid annoying mistakes, it is necessary to know some nuances;
• compared with enamel, which dries up to 7 days, the drying of acrylic lasts about 3 days;
• The filling bath method can be used for cast iron, steel, plastic products, any sizes and configurations.

Bulk acrylic has good adhesion. This property is especially important if the house has a sound bath made of high-quality material, but which has lost its appearance.

Old cast-iron bathtubs are very good in their operational characteristics: a thick layer of cast iron does not bend under weight and is characterized by poor thermal conductivity. By updating the appearance, you can significantly extend the life of the product.

Disadvantages of a bulk bath

When coating the bathtub with acrylic, there may be some inconvenience. For example, during sanding, the house is filled with smoke and dust, and the solvent used by some craftsmen has a strong odor. Therefore, it is better to send children and family members prone to allergic reactions to friends or relatives for the duration of the work.

Performing restoration, you must be very careful. Although it’s easier to work with acrylic than with enamel, even experienced craftsmen sometimes have troubles: tiles adjacent to the side can get dirty, and the surface of the bathtub will turn out uneven.

Another problem that can occur when treating a bath with acrylic is poor surface treatment before applying it. As a result, there is a poor connection of two homogeneous or dissimilar materials, and the coating begins to swell, turns yellow, forms cracks, pockets.

Water gets under the damaged layers, and this worsens the sanitary condition of the bathroom, because in such inaccessible places there is a development bacteria and fungus.

It is necessary to choose acrylic paint for the restoration of the bath very carefully, cheap material can turn out to be a fake and cross out all the work: the acrylic will bubble up, turn yellow and begin to peel off

Liquid acrylic restoration

Refreshing a bath with liquid acrylic can even be done by a layman. But, as with any other work, one cannot do without his secrets and nuances that will help to avoid annoying mistakes.

Stage number 1 - preparatory work

To maximize protection from the spread of dust and strong odors, ventilation should be provided.

For work, you will need tools, so it’s better to prepare in advance:

• components for the preparation of liquid acrylic;
• waterproof sandpaper No. 1;
• screwdriver, pliers, pliers;
• drill or grinder, hair dryer;
• gloves and a respirator;
• putty knife, putty.

Liquid acrylic itself almost does not smell, but products that are used to clean and degrease surfaces can release aggressive volatile substances. Therefore, it is better to protect yourself and use a respirator when working.

Preparation for applying acrylic also involves thorough cleaning of the room. All objects are taken out of the bathroom, surfaces that can be poured into the bathtub are washed off. To protect chrome taps and shower heads from the effects of harmful fumes, they are removed and taken out of the room. The washing machine is carefully wrapped in cellophane.

Stage 2 - cleaning the bath and removing the gloss

Before applying a new coating, it is necessary to prepare the surface. It is cleaned with Pemolux or other active detergent. Oxalic acid can be used if there is a respirator. Gruel is prepared from the product, rubbed with the walls and left for 15 minutes, then washed off, the bathtub is filled with water. Lower it after 20 minutes.

The upper layer of the cast-iron bath is marked with a grinder and special silicon carbide discs. You can also use an electric drill with a cord brush. In an acrylic bath, the walls are cleaned to a smooth and uniform matte finish. If the bath is tin, then remove any hint of rust, being careful not to wipe the material through.

For abrasive treatment, use sandpaper No. 1. Coarse-grained material can make microcracks into which the paint will be difficult to penetrate, and they will become foci of peeling.

Abrasive treatment is carried out to improve the adhesion and tight fit of acrylic to the surface. Areas with deep cracks and chips are puttied before painting.

Surface treatment is quite a laborious process, so it is better to use power tools. For these purposes, a grinder or drill with special nozzles may be suitable.

You can control the quality of surface preparation using a flashlight - there should be no glare from the old glossy coating.

By highlighting them, they check all centimeter by centimeter. You can draw it over the surface with your fingernail - it should not slip, but stretch.

If earlier on the bath any coating was already applied (except for the native, factory), then it must be completely removed

Stage 3 - degreasing the surface

From the bath, it is necessary to collect dust with a vacuum cleaner and thoroughly degrease with agents that are made on an acid basis, such as Sanoksa and Adrilana. Apply them with a new brush or household sponge, trying not to miss a single area. Around the drain and overflow use ammonia.

The degreasing process is very important for successful work, because any residual fat will cause poor adhesion to the surface. Over time, it is in these places that the peeling of the acrylic layer will begin.

At this stage, do not touch the work surface with your hands. Work only with gloves on. The smallest hit of sebum will lead to poor adhesion of acrylic to the surface of the bath

The bath covered with an acidic substance should stand for about an hour and a half, then it is filled with water. After that, the surface of the bath should be very hot. If this does not happen, add another half bottle of the substance to the water.

When the water in the bathroom has cooled, it is drained. In order not to wet your hands in an aggressive solution, the cork is pulled out using a chain or an attached fishing line.

There are special tools for surface degreasing, which are produced by manufacturers of liquid acrylic. Their use is simpler and does not require a lot of time and effort.

You can check the quality of degreasing using a stream of water, which should drain in an even layer, and not collect in drops. Cleanliness can be checked using rags with a solvent - if after thoroughly wiping the surface, it remains clean, which means that the cleaning was successful.

Now you need to remove the drain and overflow and carry out the processing of areas that were hidden under them. If there is no way to remove them, then the overflow is wrapped with masking tape - it will protect from getting paint inside. A plastic cup is glued onto the drain grate using plumbing sealant.

Drying the surface thoroughly is just as important as degreasing it. In wet areas, acrylic may not freeze or solidify, but will begin to peel off over time

Stage No. 4 - preparation of components for application

The choice bulk acrylic it is advisable to carry out the principle: the more expensive, the better. The updated bath should be operated for at least 15 years, so you should not skimp - poor-quality material can cross out all the effort spent. Among the most famous brands are EcoVannu, YarLi, and the most popular Stacril and Plastall.

To protect the painted bath from drops of water that may collect in the form of condensate, the tap is wrapped in a plastic bag. Tiles on the floor are protected from paint by spreading cellophane or newspapers around the perimeter of the bathtub.

The wall near the sides is covered with masking tape. In order to work comfortably with liquid acrylic, it is necessary that the temperature is set at 24-26 ° C in the room. Before this, the materials are brought into the room and kept for at least 24 hours so that their temperature is equal to the surrounding temperature.

Preparation of the working mixture is as follows: hardener is poured into a bucket with a base and mixed with a wooden spatula for about 10-12 minutes. In this case, using a drill with mixer type nozzles is inefficient. The walls and bottom of the tank must be given special attention.

Before mixing the base, its spatula is removed from the walls and allowed to drain down. It is necessary to adhere very clearly to the proportions established by the manufacturer.

So that the paint mixes well, it can be brought to room temperature in a water bath, but not overheated, since excessively warm acrylic can become fluid. This will lead to the formation of too thin a paint layer, to yellowing and peeling of the coating areas. The finished mixture is covered with a lid and allowed to stand for about 15 minutes to activate the properties of the hardener.

The prepared acrylic mixture cannot be stored, it is necessary to immediately start work and use it for 1.5 hours

Stage number 5 - applying acrylic to the bath

Before applying bulk acrylic, a container with a volume of about half a liter is placed under the bathtub drain - excess paint will drip into it. Stir the material again for five minutes. For application, use a clean half-liter plastic glass.

Apply the mixture to the sides of the bath, starting from the farthest corner. The paint, slowly flowing down, covers the entire surface and is collected at the bottom, where it forms a layer of up to 5 millimeters. For a uniform distribution of acrylic use a metal spatula. They are held along the bottom in zigzag movements.

By the end of the application, the composition is self-leveling. To evaluate the result, take a flashlight and check whether the entire surface is painted evenly. If voids are found, then with a spatula they pull the paint from the bottom and lead to an unsealed area. At the end of the work, not frozen drops of acrylic are removed from the sides of the bathtub with a spatula.

After 48 hours, you can remove the film and install a siphon and overflow. Final drying will occur in another 48 hours. Then it will be possible to use the bath for its intended purpose.

Detailed instructions for using liquid acrylic for bath restoration can be read here.

Features and installation of acrylic liner

The acrylic insert is a 4–6 mm thick bathtub without legs and drain holes. It is laid on top of the old one and fixed using a special mounting foam.

When installing the liner, the old bathtub serves as a support for him and therefore their configuration should be absolutely identical. The slightest discrepancy will lead to problems during operation.

Inserts this is essentially the same bathtub made of acrylic, but without legs and holes for drain and overflow. Produce them with a wide variety of colors and shades.

Pros and cons of installation

The main advantages of this method are as follows:

• the service life of the updated product is about 15 years;
• no need to dispose of the old bath;
• the glossy surface of the liner does not trap dirt and bacteria;
• The acrylic layer is abrasion resistant.

But one of the main arguments “for” is the desire to maintain a solid cast-iron base, because such bathtubs are almost never produced or produced, but they are not cheap.

Correct installation of the acrylic liner implies its full compliance with the configuration of the bath. Therefore, all inserts are produced for typical products. If the bathtub has a non-standard shape - round, triangular, with wide edges - then this option of restoration should be unconditionally discarded

If the old bathtub is installed with a side recessed into the wall, you will have to cut a groove in the wall or, if the tile is laid, remove the tile border or adjacent row of tiles. Naturally, then you will have to restore the previous neat appearance of the room.

Performing these works makes the restoration of the bath with the liner less profitable than the method of the bulk bath, especially if you hire craftsmen and not do everything yourself.

It often happens that woes of the master correct the discrepancy between the parameters of the liner and the bath with the help of foam, filling them with voids. This leads to poor-quality sealing, resulting in peeling of the upper layer, the formation of cracks.

The most significant disadvantages of an acrylic liner can be attributed to improper installation, but not to the material or product itself. The cause of problems can also be the use of poor-quality sealant.

How to remove the old liner?

Through damage, water gets under the liner and begins to deteriorate. The odor from stagnant fluid increases more and more, and it becomes possible to deal with it only by dismantling.

The removal of the old liner takes place in the following sequence:

1. Using an angle grinder (grinder), carefully, without touching the surface of the bath, cut the bottom of the liner.
2. To simplify dismantling, cut the liner into small segments and alternately remove the layers.
3. They clean the remains of polyurethane foam from the walls, remove stagnant water.

After the bath is completely cleaned of traces of installing the old liner, you can proceed with further work.

Removing the old liner is a very accurate job - the slightest improper movement can damage the base, which is very undesirable

Preparation for product installation

Before buying a liner, it is necessary to take measurements of the old bathtub according to the following values: length (taking into account the sides and without), width (in two places), depth. Depth is measured five centimeters from the drain. To do this, put an even and flat object on the bathtub, and, lowering the end of the tape measure to the bottom, take measurements.

Accurate measurements will help make sure that the old bath has standard sizes, under which the manufacturer produces liners. Here, the rule comes in handy: “Measure seven times ...”

If the bathtub has a sloping bottom, or narrowed sides, then it is better to ask the seller: it is possible that such configurations are not on sale. Most often produce models with a length of 1.7 and 1.5 meters.

Since the liner is installed on the free sides of the bath, you need to free them. To do this, with the help of a hammer and a chisel, a series of tile edging is chipped. Next, remove the drain and overflow grilles, as well as the old piping.

The preparation of the old surface for installation of the liner is carried out almost in the same way as for the method of the bulk bath. It is degreased, the upper glossy layer is removed, paying special attention to the transitions from the bottom to the walls.

The technological edge, which is necessary for the safe transportation of the product, is cut off from the new insert. A new bath is put into the old one, the places under the drain and overflow are precisely marked, holes are cut out

Restoration method "bath to bath"

On the prepared surface of the old bath, a special two-component mounting foam is applied, which does not expand and does not deform the liner. It is very important to apply evenly over the entire surface.

Around the drain and overflow apply silicone sealant. It will prevent water from entering the space between the new and old bathtubs. Next, install the liner, press it with your hands, tap it with a rubber mallet. Particular attention is paid to the bottom and the transition to the sides.

Immediately after installing the liner, drain and overflow are mounted. This will help to fix the liner and protect against leakage, because the next step is to fill the bathtub with cold water. Water, due to its weight, helps to create uniform pressure on the walls and bottom, until the foam hardens.

The final step can be considered the installation of borders made of plastic or tile. Without this element, it is difficult to achieve the tightness of the joints of the wall and the bath.

We also recommend that you read the step-by-step instructions for installing acrylic liner, which is on our website.

7 criteria to compare restoration methods

To assess the different ways of updating the old bathtub and making the right decision, you can use a set of criteria that will allow you to sort out the advantages and disadvantages of each method.

The table will help to visually compare the advantages and disadvantages of bath restoration methods by installing a liner and applying a liquid filling agent.

Each of the restoration methods has its pros and cons. Making the right decision can only be based on a specific situation.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

A detailed video about the restoration of the bath using the "bulk bath" method:

Installing an acrylic liner is described in detail in this video:

Whatever method of restoration you choose - a bulk bath or an acrylic liner - they have a common material, and therefore care for them. Acrylic products are afraid of aggressive detergents and products containing abrasives. Even hard-brushed sponges are not recommended.

No metal objects are placed in the bath, and animals are bathed only on a protective mat. You must also not use too hot or cold water. Adhering to the recommendations, you can keep the acrylic bathtub in perfect condition for many years.

Already had to independently restore the bath and can you give practical advice to our readers? Please leave comments, share experiences, ask questions on the topic of the article in the block below.